Dry sump Tank

Also managed to finish of the inner wings l started some time back to aid getting more air into the engine bay paretically the carbs.

The mount and the engine compartment are looking good, Rich! Drill some more holes in the plate and in the tubing (under the plate) and it'll be lighter yet! The louvers letting air into the engine compartment will be a big help. A lot of guys cut a 6 or 7" hole in the firewall in front of the engine for access as well; that area is pressurized from the under the car airstream (higher pressure than over the top) and isn't going to let any heat into engine compartment. Guys have found that (in beetles) you can remove the front breastplate (the piece over the bellhousing) and the only thing you have to worry about is road debris getting sucked into the fan. Screen the hole and you won't have to worry about it. I would extend the air exhaust for the oil cooler lower, if there's a doghouse cooler in the shroud (yours looks like a DTM? and I don't know what it has). Al

Any shots of the louvres from the outside? Great and interesting work.

WOW! You got some mad fabricating skill, Rich! 

As Jimbo said, above, that is beautiful work...

Thanks guys. If only my wife was so kind with her words ����

Here's a picture BobG from the other side of the Louvres. Once l get the oil tank back and fitted, l can finish this side of with some tiger seal (flexible sealant) between the inner wings.

Very nice, Richard! Is that a 356 drum on the back of your car?

Drumskin covering the disk only I'm afraid Al.

Re, that mid-mount: That looks way, WAY better than the one I made. Nicely done!

So you won't do this, because you are not a hack, but a friend of mine has made serviceable motor mounts for his Golf race car out of hockey pucks. He spins that bugger to 7500 RPM on hill climbs.

Hockey pucks cost $15 for a bag. Something like that. 

Bracket back from welder. Rubber bushes sourced and the mail man dropped of the stubs I've had cut out and bent. 

A tight fit, just need to grind the stubs alittle closer to the frame horns and good to go. Time to get the Mig out..

Looking good, Rich! How much does it weigh? Do you have a washer under each rubber piece for spacing when you weld the tabs? I see places where you could drill a few more holes... Al

Can you show a picture of the vents from the outside where you see them on the outside of the body. Thanks

Ok , finally got the tanks back from the fab shop. Defo worth the wait. Now need to get stuck into plumbing it all up and finally get it fired up and running.

Looks good! How much does it hold?

Total capacity is 12ltrs Al,  although it will only be filled to 8 Ltrs of Oil. The extra 4 Ltrs is for the breathing etc. 

Now to see how well it fits.

Wow.

Those weld lines are GORGEOUS!  Almost as smooth as a machine weld.  Your guy is really good.  Some day, after I practice welding about 5,000 meters on different thickness metals, I might be almost as good.

Those look gorgeous!

Now to install them in the bowels of the car, never to be seen again.    Damn.

Wow.

Cheers guys. Carlos your right. It's a crime to have to hide it away in the wheel arch.

Stan, what your thoughts on using an Oil temp gauge?? Did you use one??

Did you ever weigh the aluminum midmount, Rich? I believe Stan does use an oil temp gauge, but I can't tell you where he's mounted the sender(s) (knowing Stan, he may have 3 or 4! ). I think you'll find that everyone here monitors oil temp, as it's pretty vital info when running a modified aircooled engine.  Al

4 his right one going into the engine one coming out of the engine one going in to the cooler one coming out

Hi Al

I did weigh it after welding just for curiosity and it only gained an ounce making it 1lb 13oz. Like you say, l could drill it more to lighten it further but I think it's fine.

Those rubber bushings add alot of weight though.

3. -4 For Real.... that's a lot of senders...

One sender, and yes I monitor the temp. I sent the "combi" gauge out to North Hollywood Speedometer to get it calibrated to the sensor.

I also monitor pressure.

Fuel just gets a light, and the trip odometer.

Nicely done

Thanks, Ray.

IaM-Ray posted:

Nicely done

I second that!

Stan what location did you use for your oil temp sender. I'm going round in circles has to were to fit one. Scavenge side, pressure side or will there be enough oil in the sump to get a reading?? If so l can use the old sender that's already calibrated to the gauge. That'll save a job...

I didn't do anything fancy. I put the sensor in the location where everyone does: where oil goes into the galley.  Besides being easy, I happen to think it's the appropriate place.

I don't really care how warm oil is before it goes into the cooler (or anywhere else).  What I really want to know how hot the oil being supplied to the engine is.

It makes sense to me. 

Still to decide on location, although waiting for a few senders etc and a some Dakota gauges to arrive. Then will see what space l have etc. 

Anyway had a busy day yesterday and got both tanks installed and hosed up. Not much more left apart from the above senders then l can start getting some Oil into the system.

I'll pull the plugs and crank it over by hand to get some oil flowing back to the tank. Then that should be good to go, hopefully, unless anyone can recommend  any other tips???

As we all like pic's, here's  a few pic's to show progress.

Rich - everything about your engine & engine bay is pretty dang cool! Nice job putting it together. 

Wow!

What are the springs for on the carb hats? 

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

Wow!

What are the springs for on the carb hats? 

So the wing nuts don't vibrate loose and disappear.

Thanks guys ����

Heres a question. Whilst pushing the accelerator cable through from the engine end of the car. This popped out in front of the cable at the pedal end. It's something I've not come across before so maybe you guys have. Also what is the use of it. I've search the web for accelerated cables and some have this red tube and some don't. What is its use

Cheers Al, you beat me to it...

Yeah, but you win this round, Richard, 'cause I can't say I've ever seen that....

Here's an after market cable that includes the red sleeve.

Could it be to keep the cable from fraying while rubbing on the metal grommet? You'd think it'd be secured somehow if it was. 

I've seen those on a few replacement throttle cables from different suppliers.  They are semi-loose, meaning that you can move the plastic tube all along the length of the cable and there is nothing anywhere, either on the cable or in the carrier-tube, to hold it in place anywhere.  Besides, it is way too thin-walled to act as a bushing.  As far as I can determine, all that it is, is a nice part number label.  

Goes with that red "sexy " car cover in another thread.

CRUCIAL PART IT SAYS "GERMANY" ON IT!