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Hi everybody, I had a great summer and now the speedy is tucked away in the garage for the winter.

 

Now starts the winter projects to make the car safer, better and faster :->

 

One or two folks in a recent car show I was invited too pointed the fact that my fuel lines where a bit loose and where right over the engine cylinders... So I need to do a bit of tidy up to avoid potential leaks that would lead me to walk back home :->

 

The stock mechanical fuel pump location is kind of a problem for keeping the lines out of harms way. Is there a recommended way to run those lines in a safe way or should I simply upgrade to an electrical pump located away from any heat sources ???

 

Your inputs is always valued.

 

thanks

 

jc

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You don't show picture of engine or state #/type carb.  The stock VW engine fuel pump works fine for a single carb near stock engine.  It is in center of engine so using new correct sized fuel lines capable of handling ethanol fuel is mandatory.  All lines need to have stainless steel screw hose clamps.  NO plastic filters in engine compartment.  Place a metal filter above trans-axle or under front gas tank. Replace all gas line rubber bits (tank to tunnel and tunnel to metal hose to engine then that hose to pump.

Hard to find a photo without the 59 cent plastic gas filter visible on a stock engine.

Related image

If you have dual carbs - it's a different set up but again NO plastic filter!

TOO many Speedsters have burned to a crisp due to fuel leaks.  Fiberglass readily catches fire and little is left so good to address.

Rear toast

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Last edited by WOLFGANG

A VW mechanical fuel pump will feed most dual carbed engines, so unless you're running a > 2 liter 180 or 200 horsepower beast the stock pump should be more than adequate. Buy only fuel hose rated for today's fuels; I believe modern fuel hose is marked 30R10 (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). As Greg said, make sure all the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the engine are not going hard, they are properly routed so they don't rub anywhere, if the fuel line comes through the bellhousing sheetmetal check for the rubber grommet, make sure all the clamps and the fittings in the pump and carb(s) are snug and tighten, adjust and replace as necessary.

Do this at the beginning and monthly during the driving season and you won't have any issues. 

Oh, 1 other thing- the small, cheap Facet fuel pump doesn't move stock volume when regulated down to 3 lbs, so if you do replace the stock pump with an electric make sure it pumps adequate volume for what you have. I know lots of guys in the VW world use a Carter rotary pump with bigger dual carbed engines with success (iIrc this pump is even reasonably quiet). Al

Wow ! totally forgot specs and pictures... my bad. its a Beck speedster with CB performances 1915cc topped off with dual Webber 40mm. I have 2 plastic filters (one going before the pump and one after). Their is also a shut off valve to starve the carbs when winterizing (I guess). I got the car that way ... not a big fan of the way it is done. 

This is an old picture from when I purchased the car, you barely see the fuel filter and the shut off valve. I will have access the the car next week to post a better one. 

When replacing the filters the last bit of line between the filter and the pump snapped and I replaced it. The line runs between the left carb and the Air Box. The new line is a bit longer and instead of running under the fresh air tube it goes around it. I guess that is what could be the problem. 

What I am thinking here is to have an electric pump by the fuel tank in the front of the car, new rubber fuel rated lines and have a brass T fitting right behind the air box to feed both carbs. That way I avoid having lines running through the engine bay with a bunch of connections and filters each adding to the chances of a roadside BBQ. 

My idea here is just to keep it simple and keep the car healthy on the long run.

 

Their is many pumps out there with different pressure rating... I was "window shopping" at CIP1.ca and found that one : http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDeta...=C26%2D127%2D202%2DB

 

Not sure what pressure is required for my setup.

 

Thanks all for the great support.

 

jc

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That's a solenoid "vib-ra-tor" pump like the Empi/Facet.  Same CIP  pump is 1/2 that price at Amazon $23!  https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-...AZPDX01BNFWJ88CBZZ6K

Go for a real rotary vane motor pump like the Carter pump $32 (ouch $95 at CIP) -

https://www.amazon.com/Carter-...ter+rotary+fuel+pump

 

Are high prices due to low Canadian $$$???  Does that make a $70k IM only $35k USD?

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Like Wolfgang posted, the Airtex off Amazon is cheap and works great. I like it because it has a filter and accepts threaded hose fittings (1/8" NPT).

I mounted it on the "firewall" where VS originally mounted their oil-cooler, I used one of the left-over bolts to mount the pump.

It's a great pump, my fuel gauge registers 3 1/2 lbs which is right in the middle of Weber specs and I've not yet (knock on my wooden head) had any problems with it...except the gas it pumps is always too expensive and flows through it (and my carburetors) much too quickly!

Will

Last edited by Will Hesch

The main reason I installed the "primer switch" is because I have an Accusump. It releases oil under pressure into the engine when I start the car. I didn't want to turn the key and release the oil before I was ready to actually start the car.

Much engine wear occurs when you start the car before the oil gets really flowing. The Accusump helps prevent that. It also pushes oil into the engine if there is a loss of pressure for any other reason, like cornering hard causing to oil to slosh away from the pump pickup tube. Originally I did not have an add-on sump and needed it more for that then.

Glenn Ring posted:
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Downside: when the car sits for any length of time (with Dellortos, for sure), and the float bowls dry out, you can crank the car for 30 seconds while they fill

... just like a mechanical pump.

Actually, if i remember correctly when power is first applied, it runs for 30 seconds.

That would be really, really cool. I've been seeing these for years, and never put one in because of what I mentioned. If the relay works as you describe, that's pretty great.

Thanks, Glenn!

Hello everybody, I managed to have a bit of quiet time in the garage to make some progress on the winter projects. The fuel pump was one of them and a breather kit.

 

I ordered the carter rotary pump. I should have done more homework before buying this exact model (P60430) since it is a 6PSI model. They do have a 4PSI model (P60504) more tailored to the Webber 3PSI requirement. No big deal, I added a fuel regulator and a small pressure gauge to make sure everything was perfect.

 

The pump was installed right behind the tank on the car frame cross member with rubber padding to try to cut the noise down a little bit. 

 

I followed the attached wiring diagram to allow for a primer switch just in case the car is parked for a while and added a 10amps fuse. The holley regulator was adjusted to exactly 3PSI with the engine not running, while running I didn't see a drop in pressure. Will see in the summer when I put more RPM's on it but the pump seems to have plenty of power to keep pushing fuel at a constant pressure. 

After all this was an easy project, I am glad its done.  

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