IM ROADSTER/EBAY

Banzai Pipeline posted:

NOT sure why anyone goes for the small 1600 and NO A/C when ordering an IM Roadster....I can see passing on some other options(overriders/3500, leather/2500) and a few other costly luxuries if the budget is tight. My SPEEDIE does not have A/C but methinx the original build MINDSET was strictly performance AND the owner had 8 other BENTLY's, LAMBOS, etc to cool his disposition.

Would like some A/c: possibly electronic?

http://classicretrofit.com/pro...ic-air-conditioning/

WNGD posted:

I've looked at that for awhile since I love the color combo but the 1600 has me stop short....

I would imagine that this will NOT sell for 49K...at some price point...you could pull the 1600 and upgrade. YOU NEVER know until you figure out at what number it presents a reasonable purchase and then do your thing.

You will NOT be the only potential buyer having issues with the 1600 and the seller will need to kick back or KEEP the car....DONT believe the old "I'll keep it" because it's NOT TRUE and we've heard it all before. ITS FOR SALE for a reason...the guy needs the cash/doesn't use it/wife hates it/NO A/C??/whatever

Bob: IM S6 posted:

BANZA:  "AND the owner had 8 other BENTLY's, LAMBOS, etc to cool his disposition."

I met the owner of your IM, and he had the attitude that goes with owning that number of cars.  I'm glad the car is now in the hands of someone who drives it and appreciates it.  He was a real gem.

THANXXXX BOB: I love the car....had the amber fogs put on, the fans installed on the oil coolers(RUNS COOL AS ICE NOW), and I'm loving it more each day. I cannot get over how well it handles AND the power is instantaneous and addictive.... Certainly a nice surprise gift for myself as the big 65 clicks on 5 weeks

That 1600 IM would be a good candidate for a Subaru swap. 

New gearbox, 3.44 R&P & etc.: $1,500

Engine: $3,000 (after heads, head gasket, oil separator, cams, timing belt, water pump, oil pan, etc). 

Electronics: $1,000

A/C: $1,000

Cooling system: $1,000

Labor/contingency: $2,000

Total: $9,500

 

A CB Perf 2110 would end up being about the same.

edsnova posted:

That 1600 IM would be a good candidate for a Subaru swap. 

New gearbox, 3.44 R&P & etc.: $1,500

Engine: $3,000 (after heads, head gasket, oil separator, cams, timing belt, water pump, oil pan, etc). 

Electronics: $1,000

A/C: $1,000

Cooling system: $1,000

Labor/contingency: $2,000

Total: $9,500

 

A CB Perf 2110 would end up being about the same.

Ed, what is that oil separator you speak of above ?  I always seem to find oil splashed all up my dipstick when checking oil hot. I may have missed installing that part on my conversion and maybe that will cause the dipstick splash ?  Thanks...

Banzai Pipeline posted:

From the Classic Retrofit install PDF:

  • You must install a 90A alternator from a Carrera 3.2 and uprate the wiring to suit.
  • Make sure the battery is of adequate capacity (75Ah) and in good order.
  • The ECU may reduce compressor speed or switch it off completely during long periods of low alternator output. E.g. when the car is left at idle for an extended period. A built-in recovery time allows the battery to recharge. The time is configurable but usually around 1 minute.
  • The ECU may switch off the compressor if many high power items are switched on at the same time. E.g rear defogger, wipers and headlights at the same time for an extended period.
  • Avoid too many short journeys at low speed. Engine cranking really depletes the battery and needs a reasonable amount of road time to replenish.

Everybody is free to do what they would like. This is my business (HVAC/R), and would suspect that this would be better than a fan only... but not by much.

We'll see the day when electric A/C is a reality, but not until we see much higher voltage systems in cars. I'd think 24v at a minimum to make this thing work well.

 

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:
Banzai Pipeline posted:

From the Classic Retrofit install PDF:

  • You must install a 90A alternator from a Carrera 3.2 and uprate the wiring to suit.
  • Make sure the battery is of adequate capacity (75Ah) and in good order.
  • The ECU may reduce compressor speed or switch it off completely during long periods of low alternator output. E.g. when the car is left at idle for an extended period. A built-in recovery time allows the battery to recharge. The time is configurable but usually around 1 minute.
  • The ECU may switch off the compressor if many high power items are switched on at the same time. E.g rear defogger, wipers and headlights at the same time for an extended period.
  • Avoid too many short journeys at low speed. Engine cranking really depletes the battery and needs a reasonable amount of road time to replenish.

Everybody is free to do what they would like. This is my business (HVAC/R), and would suspect that this would be better than a fan only... but not by much.

We'll see the day when electric A/C is a reality, but not until we see much higher voltage systems in cars. I'd think 24v at a minimum to make this thing work well.

 

I know...read it all BUT some guys get good results BUT . ...you are right...likely to be way more of a problem than COOL....I'll just need to settle for AIR in my HAIR....!

On rare occasions, sitting in traffic with top down..gets a bit HOT.....AND I have never driven with the top up but I know its hot inside when I get in to take top down ,so, do NOT want to cruise with top up.

I HAVE driven in a soft rain with top down and its great....its Hawaii so if I cant take a bit of rain CRUIZIN in my ass kickin IM6, I should either move or SELL the car. MY wife gettin a bit PISSED at all the, ahem, BIKINI action doth the careth geth(if you get my LATIN drift)

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