Skip to main content

Went to Kirks a really productive day on the build. Thanks to the gUSA working hard in the back, they got a LOT done for me. They got a nice 18 pk of beer as a thank you!

One of the things I really didn't want to tackle and left for the experts were the windshield, dash pad, eyebrow pad thingy, and the bumpers. I'm amazed how quick and accurate the guys are when doing this and it was really cool to see the process!

I also picked up and paid off the rest of my kit from Kirk. Only thing that wasn't complete were the seats, convertible top, and 1/4 tonneau cover. I'll get those on Monday or Tuedsay. The German square weave was worth the extra mones. It's gorgeous. That wiring harness... looks like a PITA!

And don't those new Vintage Motorcars silver 5-wide times look amazing!!!

Attachments

Images (14)
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image
  • image

X2,  car looks awesome.  To piggy back what James mentioned...

- consider the Tenax fastners... You won't need as many as if you use snaps, and look awesome/ more OEm.   

http://www.eagleday.com/tenaxfasteners1.html

- also, the new  WHEEL looks AWESOME.  I notice you still have the short studs on.  Will you put on 45mm ( in lie ow of the 38s).  If you are looking for black studs, Alex @ Vintage M. can get them for you in 48.5mm lenth in the M12 x 1.5 to fit the AC industry kit you have installed.

Congrats... Love the approach you are taking to build your car.

cheers,

Luis

James posted:

Wow!  That is looking great! 

Just curious, you are not going to ever have a full tonneau?   If you think you may ever want a full tonneau, now is the time to install snaps in the dash before going much further. 

I've put a lot of thought into a full tonneau cover. I even talked to the guys at the shop about installing the snaps/tenax fasteners this morning... but decided to pass. Call me a poopie head, but I'm not sure my OCD'ness would put Eleanor in a position to need a full cover. Poopie head = this guy ;-)

Lfepardo posted:

X2,  car looks awesome.  To piggy back what James mentioned...

- consider the Tenax fastners... You won't need as many as if you use snaps, and look awesome/ more OEm.   

http://www.eagleday.com/tenaxfasteners1.html

- also, the new  WHEEL looks AWESOME.  I notice you still have the short studs on.  Will you put on 45mm ( in lie ow of the 38s).  If you are looking for black studs, Alex @ Vintage M. can get them for you in 48.5mm lenth in the M12 x 1.5 to fit the AC industry kit you have installed.

Congrats... Love the approach you are taking to build your car.

cheers,

Luis

Hey Luis - Thanks!!!

Alex and I had a pretty extensive convo about the studs and length exposed with the new rims. They are thicker then the typical chrome 5-wides. When I installed them, I felt very comfortable with the amount of thread left. I'm not a huge fan of studs that stick out further then necessary when the bolts are at the proper tq. There's enough thread with the shorter 38mm. Plus, I will have the moon hub caps on and you won't even see the studs and bolts...

Have you thought about - or do you even need - getting a set of drumskins to go under the Wide Fives?  I'm not sure if your car needs them, but I had them on my last car, and they looked great.  I know you are going with moon hubcaps, but there may be tijmes when you want a different look.  Just a thought...I had moon caps on mine also, but took them off once in a while, just to change the look of the car.

BTW, beautiful car you have there! 

IM for sale [16)IM for sale

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IM for sale (16)
  • IM for sale
TRP posted:
*LongFella posted:
MusbJim posted:

DANG! Your car looks awesome with those wheels. 

Thanks! They are noticeably lighter compared to the typical chrome 5-wides...

The car is looking really great! I'm impressed with the design choices you've made. Beautiful!

How's the motor coming?

The engines look at me every time I walk in the garage and haunt me... LOL!

I've got the 1915 on the stand and will start the top end rebuild. The old 1600 is torn apart, bored for 90.5, and packed away. Not sure what to do with that. I keep thinking a 2110 would be a nice all around motor to have, but I might have bitten more then I can chow when it comes to building engines...

TRP posted:

On the 1915, you should replace that sump. Keep the sump plate, but replace the actual sump. There is a stud in the sump which I was never able to get quite right. 

I'm planning to replace a few things on the 1915, clean it up, repaint some things, and get it all nice a pretty before installing. I've got the rockers off and stashed away so I don't reduce the live of the valve springs while it sits...

I think a Tenax is appropriate for something you remove often. I don't think that would be the case with engine tins. Also, the tins already have threaded holes for machine screws to hold it all together.

Tenax fasteners wouldn't hold metal pieces together as tightly as a machine screw and things probably would rattle or buzz.

English Tenax fasteners are cheaper than German ones. Probably most people would know you cheated. I got mine from here: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/search?query=tenax

 

That and the amount of actual open space under and around the Spyder is vastly greater than the amount of open space under a Speedster if you removed the tins. With the Speedster there would be concern of pulling in only heated air from the exhaust. Under the Spyder there is so much open space the heat dissipates everywhere.

Carl Berry CT. posted:

Hey, I'm really surprised that all those prewar vehicles survived the war!

I would have thought that the Soviets confiscated everything on wheels as war reparations....Huh?

I can't say if all were in CZ when initially found and restored, but I can CZ was pretty untouched during WWII. A lot of the original buildings and churches still stand today. It's a beautiful country

Did a little work on the Speedster this morning. I ran the battery cable front to back and set up the negative battery cable too.

Where's the typical location for the negative battery cable? Couldn't find any good photos on the site...

Is it me, or is it weird the positive battery cable kind of hangs where it comes out of the front compartment going into the cab and back out the rear, hanging again, before it is connected to the starter. I can shorten the wire, but it just looks odd...

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×