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Have ordered a set of Sachs (Mexico of course)oil filled that were a different length that what I pulled off my CMC. What is the correct length for front and back shocks either fully extended or fully compressed so I know I have the correct shocks. These were shorter by 2 inches from the ones on it and had way too small of a threaded shaft at top. Purchased online thru RockAuto whose catalog said these would fit--now on their way back. The beam seems to be totally stock. The ones I took off the front were red in color,said heavy duty, 20" fully extended,made in Japan.

Yes--I have several threads on the forum but no answer found.

Thanks Guys.

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Is front end lowered with dropped spindles, beam adjusters, or CMC book method of cutting and turning torsion tubes.  Stock shocks can be used with a slight drop but can bottom out (be compressed where there is no more travel) if it too great.

Here's good SAMBA thread on shorter shocks -

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/fo...ewtopic.php?t=405090

KTB Gas-A-Just measurements for VW KG4521:

Extended Length - 16.26 inches
Compressed Length - 10.55 inches

I'd take off a shock - lift it up on floor jack and measure the full extended length (pull down on brake assembly to ensure it fully extended).  Then put on ground and sit on fender to fully compress and measure again - that will give you range the shock has to work in.  Many go with '70 Opel shocks as they are 2 inches shorter which is a pretty normal drop.

With dropped spindles - the stock shocks are used as the suspension geometry isn't alter - just the wheel center height.  The spindles look different,  Somewhere I have photo of stock vs dropped spindle that I posted here awhile back.  The trouble with dropped spindles is 2.5" may be too much so some use with beam adjusters (VS often uses a single beam adjuster).  Adjusters (usually 2 are used - one top center of front H beam and one in lower below it.  (I guess some also remove torsion spring leaves).  

Image result for vw bug front beam adjusters

 

 

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Last edited by WOLFGANG

I have examined the front tower and spindles--they look totally stock by the pics I have used to compare with. I order the cofap oil filled for the front and KYB GRs for the rear. We will see how this works out--Thanks all for the responses.

Replacing both  cv axles since when I touched 1 boot--it feel apart. I figure when I'm done with sorting I should have a 75% reliable driver. My guess is that this CMC was put tgr in the early 80's due to the age of the PO--passed at 81 4 years ago and there is an Miami Fl CMC plate in front hood--doesn't say Fiberfab.

Planning on 1974 tranny install(freeway flyer right???), new paint, interior, rims, wiring harness over the Ohio winter to finish it up.

Later

The term "freeway flier" was dreamt up 30 or 35 years ago by a now defunct company to describe using a slightly longer (.82) 4th in an otherwise stock geared trans.  I (and others) wish it would die, as the term has no real definition; VW never equipped any of it's cars with a "freeway flier" transaxle, and people use it to describe any number of combinations.

An unmolested type 1 trans from 1974 ( which is rare these days, given the age of these things) will have a 3.88 ring & pinion with a .93 (beetle) or .89 (karmann ghia) 4th. The beetle got the slightly shorter final gear because the stock 1600cc engine would overheat at freeway speeds in some situations (going up hills, into a headwind, really hot days, and...) whereas the Ghia, with it's better aerodynamics ran satisfactorily at the higher speeds.

A Speedster with the Ghia gearing should have no trouble with a 1600. Al

PS- Sorry Heritage (got a first name?)- I don't have any shocks laying around that I can measure.

Last edited by ALB

Agree with Al on "freeway flyer" confusion.  The originals (I guess penned by Rancho?) had the 3.88 R&P gear conversion plus welded sychros and beefier side plates.  You aren't too far from MOFOCO (Milwaukee WI) who does trans rebuild to those spec. The .89 4th or maybe even a .82 (from a bus) top gear is good too,  The idea of the FF was to lower RPMs at highway (interstate) cruising speeds.  With aerodynamic light weight Speedster it works well. In a non-aerodynamic car (stock bug body or say a Bruebaker Box), the FF could cause engine to run hotter as fan isn't turning fast enough to cool properly.

https://www.speedsterowners.com...ay-flyer-vs-412-rpms

Note on using later trans is that the nose cone/front mount is different so will need to switch or use conversion front mount.

Did you see the beam adjuster in the center of front beam?  It's Dave???

 

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