Bill, you’re in the same carburetor predicament as my “Tuner” son - He thinks all carburetors work on some principle of Black Magic. And since they haven’t been used on most cars since something like 1983, knowing how to set them up and keep them happy is a dieing art, too.
”Is it better to change out the points and condenser to a schedule, even if the car is running fine? ”. Usually I say, “If it’s running fine, don’t mess with it”, but if you live in a very humid area (shore/lake side or something) you might consider replacing them at 12K intervals, just because of corrosion, but again.....If it’s running fine I would leave it alone.
If you install an electronic ignition module, the condenser is not used and unless the distributor is removed or rotated during the swap (both unlikely in your case) the timing will be unchanged. The Carbs won’t need to be adjusted for anything, either. Just remove the old points and condenser, drop in the electronic module per the enclosed instructions and you’re done.
Timing light: handy little buggers. You want one with an inductive pickup. It looks like a giant clothes pin that clamps around the #1 plug wire anywhere alongs it’s length. Other than that, I have one that runs on 2 “D” batteries so I don’t have to find +12 volts back there for the light and it about the size of a flashlight - Handy in the small space near the pulley.
Local aircooled resources are like gold these days. Interview them like they will be your doctor and go with the ones your comfortable with.