McGruff posted:Great thread, lots of good info. Most everything I thought of is covered, I just wanted to add my 2¢ on valve cover gaskets. I get almost no leakage using this method.
First, make sure your valve covers are straight. The stock type work just fine if they're straight. If you ever decide to go aluminum, get the type that work with wire bails, they keep constant pressure on the gasket and are immune to vibration.
Next, I've had my best luck with FelPro cork gaskets from my local auto parts. Use Permatex copper on the valve cover side only. I didn't have a spare set of heads to compress the gaskets into the cover while the Permatex cures, so I made a set of fitted cutouts from some 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard) I had lying around. Any wood will work, as long as it's flat. Lay a thin bead of Permatex on the clean valve cover, gently press the cork gasket into it, wrap the wooden cutouts with saran wrap so excess Permatex doesn't stick, then gently clamp them to the valve cover, making sure the gasket doesn't slide or deform. Wait several hours for the Permatex to cure.
Finally, remove the clamps and wood cutouts after the Permatex is set. When you're ready to install the covers, work a thin coating of axle grease into the head side of the gaskets, then place each one on its head and secure with the wire bail. Try to get the valve cover centered side-to side before snapping the bail on with a screwdriver. If possible, let the engine sit for a few hours to give the cork time to set. Then take it out for nice long drive, long enough for the heads and oil to run at full operating temperature for at least 30 minutes. Bring it home and park it level. Check for leaks the next morning, but I doubt you'll find any.
The next time you have to pull the valve covers, they should come right off without sticking. If the mating surface is intact, you can reuse the gaskets. Carefully wipe the mating surface of the heads, the insides of the valve covers, and the gaskets themselves clean of engine oil with a shop towel, then re-coat the gaskets with axle grease before assembly.
Eric
Thanks for the info on gaskets Eric. I've found folks who use no sealer at all on the gaskets, others that use Permatex on both sides of the gasket, and others still that do as you do, and use Permatex on the valve cover side, and grease on the head side of the gaskets.
I'm going to do as you do and use grease on the head side of the gasket - I have visions of the gasket welding itself to the head, and having to scrape the gasket material off the head when checking the valves in the future.
I'm falling a bit behind due to a health issue (damn gout), but I managed to get the oil changed in the bug and Speedster today. We're having family come to visit over the next few days, but I may try to get out there and check the valves tomorrow before folks start arriving.
Took the speedster out for a drive to warm it up before changing the oil - temp outside was 41 when I left - winter is on the way. (baseball cap, two light coats, driving gloves, shorts and the blow torch of a heater our cars have on high!) Stylin' and warm enough.
Bill