It was running when I parked it! They were pretty much all were. It don't mean they'll run now.
Redlineweber.com has a lot of free information. Download the IDF stuff. Read it and re-read it and read it again when you are working on the carburetors. Just like spaghetti sauce...it's in there.
EMPI carburetors are a copy of Weber 44's. If your car has setup for a while you'll need to rebuild the carburetors. Get new carb kits and be sure that the float needles have viton tips.
Check for air leaks at the intake manifolds below the carb bodies and at the connection to the heads. Check for air leaks in the exhaust headers at the heads and any other exhaust connections.
If you have a heavy smell of gas fumes in your garage you likely have a float that is not closing. You may also have gas in the oil. If you smell gas in the oil; change the oil immediately before running the engine. Be sure all oil is drained from the system if you have a remote filter and oil cooler.
Idle jets are a fairly constant issue. Remove the jets and blow air thru the orifice. You have to be able to see thru the jet. Be sure to replace the o-rings on the jet holders. Be sure that the old o-rings are not in the carb body. Also blow back thru the carb body where the jets were. If you don't have an air compressor you can buy canned air at Office Depot.
Install Jet Doctors. They do wonders, but you'll still have occasional idle jet blocking.
The float bowl is open to the atmosphere within the air filter. Nothing you can do about that.
The idle stop screws are never more than 1/2 turn in from contact with the arm. You will never get the carbs set right if they are set more than 1/2 turn.
Balance of the carbs is critical. They either work together or work against each other. They cannot be balanced with the carb linkage attached.
There have been volumes written about this issue here. Search the archives.