Robert M posted:ALB posted:I've had to do it on an engine when the heads were flycut for more compression. If there's thread on both sides of all the head nuts (the nuts are not bottoming out on the unthreaded parts of the studs before the heads are torqued down) you could just shorten them. Leave 2-3 full threads outside of the nuts. You'll have to clean up the ends after cutting, and that's easier if there's already a thread chaser thingie (I'm so technical) on the threaded part. File or grind the end of the stud smooth, remove the thread chaser, and then check that a nut goes on easily and there's no metal bits left on the stud. Al
Al,
Won't you lose the slot where the allen wrench goes in to tighten/remove the case studs if he cuts them shorter? Or will 2 or 3 threads above the nut leave enough room to put on another nut for removing the studs?
I've never seen head studs with machined ends for an allen wrench, Robert. I've always had to double nut the studs to remove and install them. And I've never seen studs so long that (even when shortened) that there wasn't enough thread area to double nut them.
Bobby D posted:Guys
I think I got the studs that are 1/2 inch longer. The longest ones on the push rod side of the heads are 9.5 inches long. I don't know what is the standard length. How much of the threads should you see above the case savers if the studs are bottomed out?
I thought the threads should just about bottom out on the case end, but I could be wrong. I have some 10mm studs (taken off an engine years ago) in a box in the garage that are 8" long, but I don't remember exactly where they are from. I have some 8mm head studs on a stroker engine (over .200" shims under the cylinders) on the bench in the garage and the 4 in the rocker box look to be about 9 1/2" long (if I get a chance later I'll remove the head and check; it's only mocked up at the moment), but to be honest I don't remember where they were from. I think they are stock VW studs, but it's been so long...