Update!
Debugging my front end. Why is it so low with little to no suspension travel?
Top spring pack = 4 large and 2 halves.
Bottom Spring pack = 5 large and 3 halves.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that like... HALF of what it should have?
The fix: Just order 1 lower spring pack and put 4 large on top and 5 large, and 1 small on the bottom?
Might as well order a front disk brake kit, drum skins and 4 beam shims at the same time, right?
The curse of Al continues...
Ted
This is the problem when you lower a VW front end by modifying the beam (whether it's pulling torsion leaves out or changing the position of the center attachment point in the beam itself either by cutting, rotating and welding or installing center adjusters); you reduce suspension travel. The angle of the tie rods is also changed and this introduces some bump steer to the mix. Drop spindles (they come in drum and disc) lower the front end without changing suspension travel or ride quality. The only penalty is they add 1/2 or 5/8" to the track on each side.
In a balljoint front end there should be 4 wide leaves and 6 narrow (3 on top and 3 on the bottom) of each leaf stack. So 8 wide and 12 narrow altogether. See the pic below. Put it back together and see where the ride height sits before you buy a front disc brake kit, as it may ride a little higher with the full compliment of torsion bars back in it. You may or may not want to add drop spindles to it (they lower the front 2 1/2"), so that's why I'm suggesting doing it the long way. Or, if you add them now and it rides a little too low, the fix is to add adjusters to both tubes (or turn and weld the centers). This means the beam has to come out and be completely disassembled again- would be a good winter project, and that way you're not cutting into summer driving time...
Now would be a great time to add caster shims to the bottom tube, and Gene Berg Ent. makes thin (1 1/2 degree- GB 681) and thick (3.4'- GB 682) versions. Note that either stacking 2 thin ones together or using the thicker shims will require longer bolts for the bottom beam, and Berg sells them. Somewhere in his writings he recommends running a tap through the bottom threads in the frame head when using the longer bolts, but there was enough junk (weld spatter?) in mine that I couldn't run the tap in far enough so I just shortened the longer bolts 4 threads (put the thread chaser on the bolt first so you can clean up the threads after filing the ends smooth, as the hacksaw job I did wasn't pretty) and that did the trick. The thin ones should be enough for freeway speeds and a little faster; buy the thicker shims if you seriously like to blast down the highway
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I'm really sorry Ted, there's that damn curse again!
I really don't know what to do...
PS- Glad you're having fun with it! The madness you have bad, I must say...Your buddy Yoda.
Ah, shoot! I forgot the picture..
PPSS- Holding the leaf stack together with some tape or elastic and bevelling the edges of the leaf stack (I don't know if a file will touch them but a grinder will work) will make installation a little easier. Getting them started through the center collar can be a little bit of a bear...
