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Reply to "Jack Points for CMC"

@Sean Seena posted:

@Robert M @Michael McKelvey thanks, the Y/wishbone knowledge is good stuff.   I lifted the car today and I used a square 2x4 at the jack point, but I don't think that's a good idea.  Esp in the garage I'm in now, where there's a slight grade.  I felt like the 2x4 did a slight "seesaw" tilt action wrt the round torsion tube, no bueno.  Next time I think I should just let my jack's teeth contact directly (better than the car dropping).   Or use one of these hard rubber jack pucks (https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-...lotted/dp/B06WRMSHP2), because the torsion bar might stay stuck in the slot of the puck?  But any wisdom here would be appreciated.

@James Good catch, actually you might be able to notice that I had removed the purple overlay from the wires in order to show and ask "Hey what's up with this wiring is it normal??"  But forgot, thanks for bringing attn to it.  Sounds like it's not normal.  

Today I did the poor man's method of just avoiding the area with wiring  But if someone looks at it from a higher angle, it's not apparent that there's wiring down there.  Hopefully future-me will remember...  I would think the corrugated loom probably wouldn't completely protect the wires under that type of load (but the crinkling sound of the plastic might be a good warning...)

I'm going to have a closer look at the wiring, maybe I can get it away from the torsion tube.

I just let the jack contact the flat section of the "Y" point. I also chock the front wheels so there's no forward roll. It's actually a good idea to chock both sides of the tire to prevent roll and if there's a slope to the floor it'll help keep the ca from moving ig the jack rolls a little. I use wedge type chocks so they get under the tire a little so there's no slop.

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