FWIW, back in the day I had to renew the drums on my old 356, so I know about the castle nut, and the big cheater bar. Still have the 36 mm socket I used back then. fits perfectly. And I do know about feet and pounds, mine being close to 200 at this point. so me at 2 feet ought to get the job done. I'll be checking on the torque on the other side too. No wobble there that I can detect, but if one side went bad ...
I have now ordered parts sufficient to rebuild both sides top to bottom, bearings included. [Do you think the bearings might also be affected by that sloppy spline?] Had a lot of trouble locating the rotors. Many local and on-line shops list these but do not actually have them. Jbugs has them. They also list the four hole rotors as both long and short spline, which I find interesting. The one I took off uses the short spline and a spacer, what they will send is a long spline. Seems to me longer is better. When I ask, they admit these rotors are Empi parts. About the only game in town so far as I can tell.
I get aircooled (Bruce)'s technical essay on bolts, nuts and threads, torque etc. . Its all been designed and spec'ed out by folks who build and understand such things, strength of materials and all of that. I'll be going for 220 + what it takes to get the cotter pin in place.
I note also the admonition to recheck these torques as a routine maintenance item. Hmmm. I seem to recall such a note in the paperwork from JPS. I did not do that, so maybe this is all on me. And all those burn outs . . .