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Reply to "Rear Wheel rotor/bearings"

Holyshyt, where to start?? I'll take on the hijack first.  My dad spent WWII as a USNavy officer working with the Brits and Eisenhower (?) on the invasion.  He sailed across the Atlantic a few times when such travel carried huge risk from U-boats. He was a gunnery officer off shore, pounding the German positions at Normandy. I Never really had a chance to quiz him about all of that, as he did not make it past 50.  I never heard him say a thing about Germans, Japanese, or anybody else having to do with the war.  That said, I'm sure he had opinions, I just never had a chance to find out what they were.

And so how about those fancy CV drive axels.  Pictures of the assembly included.  By my careful inspection, they appear to be made just fine, and I hope they mean what they say about exceeding OEM specs.  The CV assemblies seem stout, shiny, smooth to flex. I'm hoping that there are truly fine manufacturing entities in China where the folks there actually know what they are doing, and use proper materials. The CVs came unloaded with grease, and I'm here to tell those who already know that pumping those things with grease is a messy affair.  I think I loaded them up good.  So the status is I now have on the left rear drive side: a new CV drive axel, new bearings/seals inner and outer (the old inner bearing definitely had some rattle and grind to it), and the new disk brake hub.  All seems to lash up well, and I am praying that the dimensions all stack up about the same so when I mount the tire, it does not rub the body.  The old lash-up had the thinnest possible clearance.

And I got CoolToolNewHubBearingsCV01NewHubBeraingsCV02one of those torque indicators (1/2" drive) and can report that it works pretty well.  Have yet to apply it to the castle nut,; that will come to the fore tomorrow. It's good to 250 ft-lbs says here. I measured out 25 ft-lb on the CV bolts (all new), and 40 ft-lbs on the bearing cover bolts.

As to the other side, my plan is to replace that hub/disk with one that matches the new one on the left, featuring the longer spline in the hub.  Mostly to be sure that the  castle nut there is torqued properly. Will leave the bearings and CVs as are -- I do not (yet) suspect them. OTOH, if after I look more closely at that side, I may change my mind.  I certainly know what to do and how to do it now wrt R&R, so maybe won't take me a week to get it done.  When buying my necessary parts for the left side, I ordered enough to do both sides.

Careful observers might notice in photo #2 that my car did not come with rubber bump stops at the rear.  Which fact I have never noticed before.  And I wonder why they are not there.  Yet another oversight by the fine QC Dept at JPS?  Possibly.  Is there any good reason why they would not be supplied?  I am now wondering what might have gone on back there when I hit that monster pot hole on the Tour d'Smo.  Actually, I went on a cruise in Pittsburgh this past July and hit an even deeper  pot hole at speed on that cruise and heard/felt a rather large thump/knock in the body that was heretofore unprecedented.   More mysteries. PS: two rubber bump stops are on their way to my garage..

And lastly, for my good buddy and Esteemed President-for-Life of the Peoples' Republic of Stanistan, regarding his advice about who I should do. I only have one me to do, so what you see is what you get.

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  • CoolTool
  • NewHubBearingsCV01
  • NewHubBeraingsCV02
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