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Reply to "Rear Wheel rotor/bearings"

@El Frazoo posted:

Meanwhile . . .

The new left side rebuild is complete, almost.  Everything got lashed up proper and the tore does not rub the body -- whoo-ha!! I lashed up the new torque indicator, got my breaker bar arranged and hopped my 200+ lbs on that handle until  the new gizmo beeped, having been set at 220 ft-lbs. The peak indicator registered about 217 ft-lbs.  Given the ideal alignment of the cotter pin hole at this setting, I called this good enough. Might be ready to roll.  Also, as a matter of maintenance, I will check the torque again after some driving.

Right side: plan as mentioned is to install a new long-spline disk there, requiring removal of what turns out to be a rather very tight castle nut.  My pneumatic impact wrench did not budge it.  But again my 200+ lbs and the 1/2 breaker bar at about 16" got is loose.  Will do an R&R on that disk tomorrow, if I can manage it.  The rest of the drive line on that side seems to be just fine.  I sense no untoward looseness side to side, fore and aft. So will leave it as is.

I think you're risking the same result using the stock torque figure putting it all back together.  As a number of us have already mentioned, Kelly, upping the torque to 250- 300 ft. lbs has no ill effects (other than 1 having to bounce a little further out on the breaker bar to loosen the castle nut for maintenance) and will ensure nothing comes loose.  217 ft. lbs works for a stock car driven as intended by VW but the engineers never envisioned what we would be doing with their creations all these years later.

From what you said above, it sounds like the right side castle nut is/was a little tighter than the left and it's fine- what does that tell you?  You don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure this 1 out (or do I need to call you Kerry again to really get your attention?).

Last edited by ALB
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