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Reply to "Rear Wheel rotor/bearings"

@El Frazoo - May I call you "el"??

No, I wouldn't use an impact wrench to "torque" the castle nut on.  Off, yes....  On, no.

You really won't know what torque it is set to.  But then, I am not a mechanical Engineer, even though I've stayed in any number of Holiday Inn Express places over the years, but I think I can get you a bit closer to enlightenment:

Here is a handy-dandy torque guide for various size English and Metric bolts, from our friends at Fastenal, for common fasteners:

https://www.fastenal.com/conte...eference%20Guide.pdf

You'll need to know the diameter of the drive/stub axle which, for a 36mm nut, should be 24mm.  That's shown on here down towards the bottom:

https://www.insight-security.c...ow-metric-bolt-sizes

Now, go back to the Fastenal chart and scroll down the left side to Metric fasteners, then find 24mm and scroll over to the right to the Grade 8 section and that gives you 523 Ft/Lbs. Max. Dry.

(BTW: It shows 34,450 for the clamp load on a 24mm shaft so your guess was very close - I guess all those ME/Physics classes you took somehow paid off.)

The K=Factors are in the notes in the lower right corner and you should be using k = 0.15 (lowest torque) for a lubed connection and K = 0.20 for a Zinc/dry fit.

Stub axles are hardened and may be harder than Grade 8.8.  If so, go to the 10.9 section and the torques go up significantly.

Remember - These are MAX tightening figures, not to be exceeded.  Working torque ranges will be lower and determined by metal hardness, thread mating area, thread pitch, lubes used, if any, so the range of 250 - 300 ft/lbs is in about the middle of the range and should not damage stub axle or nut threads - I can't speak to the hub splines as I don't know the material.

I also think it's a great idea to go with the longer reach hubs - It makes the stack-up more logical.

Hope this helps.  gn

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
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