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Reply to "Subie Radiator Bleeding issues"

David,

In my case, it was a series of problems, which started with a poor design by Steve Lawing of SAS.  His aerodynamic chart and calculations for the cooling system looked like something you would expect from a bright high school freshman at the local science fair, not from an experienced builder/engineer/savant, etc.

The radiator was in a bad place originally and couldn't get enough air through it to make it work.  Lawing had riveted a 3" x 5" bent piece of aluminum to a frame member to deflect air to  the rad.  The stock 2008 Legacy rad was completely open with 2 puller fans and no shroud.

I reconfigured the entire cooling system on my mid-engine application.  I moved and redesigned the radiator, fan, and shroud which now sits just underneath the traditional deck lid on our replicas, with twin puller fans and a shroud that forces all the air through the radiator.

I changed the intercooler from air-air to air-water, moved it to the frunk with its own pump and twin heat exchangers.  Not coincidentally, a tuner discovered a clever bit of sabotage.  Someone had placed a brass nipple reducer in a water line: 1/4" npt to 1/8" barb fitting, with just enough room in the hose for some water to bypass.  I took someone's name in vain when I found out about that.

I try to look back on that time as a learning exercise, like making lemonade out of lemons, eh?  I did learn a lot about air and water movement, radiator and fan design, etc.  If that's as bad as my troubles get, I'm a lucky guy.

Last edited by Jim Kelly
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