Regarding holsesaw wobble:
If you're having trouble, drill the pilot hole first (without the holsesaw on the arbor). Put the holesaw on the arbor, and spin the drill backwards. Once you've made it through the gelcoat and into the glass about 1/8" or so, reverse the drill to run forward. DON'T PUSH ON THE DRILL very much at all-- let the bit do the work. you'll get a little breakout on the back, but you won't chew up the front surface, and the saw won't "walk".
El Frazoo posted:
Oh, dem fu#!ing hole saws. Ask Drake about those . . .
There has to be a better way.
There is. Regarding my good friend Cory's toy holesaw-- the holes he drilled look like a beaver chewed them because he bought the world's cheapest holesaw with a single knife orbiting the pilot like a sputnik satellite. The ones on Ed's bench are Lennox, which are pretty close to the best in the business. Morse is OK, and I've used some diamond-impregnated bits for drilling ceramic/porcelain tile, but that's not the appropriate tool for the job. Getting the right tool for the job is the key to doing a good job.