For the rear toe-in, sometimes the slots in the trailing arm aren't long enough and you can't get any toe-in or toe-out or even get the rear end to zero. A bit of time with a small bit in a die grinder is what they need...
As for specs this is what I use:
1/16" toe-in in the rear(IRS can be pretty much zero), a slight amount of negative camber in the rear: 1 degree or less. ALWAYS set the rear up first, and get them equal as far as toe-in, other wise the car can dog-track. We certainly don't want that!(Swing cars get more, like 3 to 3.5 degrees negative. Stops or straps to prevent going more than 1 degree positive at droop are recommended as well. I have such straps.)
I also set the front up with 1/16" toe-in. Some guys use 1/8" but if everything is in good condition the smaller amount works fine. I use 1.5 degrees negative camber in the front, but I corner pretty quick. Negative 0.5 degrees is fine for a cruiser. An added benefit of the aftermarket camber eccentrics: If you go mild on the camber, you'll end up with a couple degrees of extra caster(which you'll need with a slammed front end). Just tell the alignment guy to make sure the eccentric leans the spindle BACK instead of FORWARD(VERY IMPORTANT).
If the shop has scales and you can corner-balance it, DO IT! A properly balanced and aligned car handles like NOTHING else. It is a difference that needs to be driven to be known. In fact, you won't be able to put your finger on WHY it feels so right. It just will.
Sometimes people leave the steering stabilizer off. Don't. And use a front sway bar if swing axle. If IRS, use a front AND a rear sway bar.
Cheers.