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Reply to "tire wear questions..."

@jncspyder- As mentioned, the extreme tire wear you were experiencing had nothing to do with the tires themselves- the camber settings were the culprit. Expensive tires will wear the same way with that much camber, and at the same rate.  With the less radical front camber you'll find the front tires now will last way longer.  What's concerning us is the lack of caster in the front- with those numbers I'm guessing that at highway speeds the front is 'a little twitchy' (it gets tiring on long drives- I know this because I've been there!) and the car gets more uncontrollable (and dangerous) the faster you go. I also know this from experience- when I was a much younger man, knowing nothing about caster (and what the lack of it does) I bracket raced my Cal Look Beetle (with the front end lowered via cutting/welding the beam) a few times a year and at the top end of the 1/4 mile track (88-89 mph through the lights) it was always a handful keeping it in my lane. At over 100 mph (coming back from Whistler down a long hill) the car was frighteningly scary to drive- a side gust put me in the opposing lane before I could react! I only took it up that high once, and I'm thankful to this day there were no cars coming the other way.  I discovered these magical things called caster shims shortly after.

The (front) caster readings suggest your car doesn't have offset spindles and was lowered by modifying the beam- either by cutting 1 or both center collars, rotating slightly (usually 1/8 or 1/4") and rewelding, or replacing said center sections with adjustable units.  Caster shims behind the bottom beam (@WOLFGANG showed a pic of a pair) will give your car back the much needed caster and make it safer to drive.

I just noticed- the discrepancy in the left/right front caster #'s is a little surprising, and suggests maybe a bent beam/frame head or tweaked trailing arm (remember, most Beetles did become donor/parts cars because of collision damage).  Most aftermarket shims today are 5-6 mm thick and add 2- 2½ degrees caster, so 2 shims on the low side and 1 on the other will get you in the neighborhood of 5°, which is the same number as all 356's (and we all know how well and predictably they handle at higher speeds).  This will make your car a rock solid performer at highway speeds (and above).  And I know, even if you don't normally play at those speeds, all it takes is a moment at above the posted speed for something to go wrong- better to be prepared.

Some reading about caster- http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=12_384_2917

Hope this helps.  Yoda out (time to go back to bed it is!)

Last edited by ALB
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