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Reply to "What would Danny Pip do?"

@Sacto Mitch posted:

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It's easy to tell if the bottoms of both down links are starting to move at exactly the same time if you don't try to look at both of them at once. Rest a finger of your left hand very lightly on the bottom of the left side link and look at the bottom of the right side link while you pull the center cable attachment point with your right hand. The two sides should move as one piece. If not, get out the wrenches.

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Personally, I think it is impossible to tell with any precision if the side-to-side sync is initiating off-idle with precision by simply "looking" or "feeling".  And, why even "look" or "feel" if you have a 'snail', which is what you should use for adjusting the off-idle progression balance.

The instant of balanced off-idle progression is practically imperceptible to detect by looking or touching.   You do it with the snail.

Your best success will come from sticking with the basics:

1.  Using the snail for side-to-side comparison; adjust the idle balance via the idle adjustment screws with one downlink disconnected.

2.  Connect both downlinks; with idle rpm and balance the same as it was when one downlink disconnected; increase rpm by 300-400 via the throttle cable.

3.  Adjust off-idle progression balance via downlink adjustment by measuring side-to-side comparison with snail.

Now, with idle (sitting on the idle stops) balanced on the snail, and off-idle progression (+300-400 from idle, pulled from throttle cable) balanced on the snail; you are done! 

The only reason to check balance at 2000 (or best at 3000 rpm) is to check for a linkage geometry problem  --  Not to make a downlink adjustment!  If balance is off at 2000 or 3000 then linkage geometry needs to be corrected (one side is pulling non-linear with the other).

I agree with Gordon, the best method to hold an adjustable throttle rpm is via mechanical device (not a foot on the throttle).  I agree with Danny, the mechanical pressure must be applied to the throttle cable (not the linkage).  The hex-bar has significant torsion flex, therefore it is important to apply throttle pressure to the linkage in real-life simulation; via the throttle cable.  I used a small turnbuckle that tensioned on the cable.

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