Ray: Going to a stud adapter like Greg posted WILL NOT change your bolt circle. It is measured to the centerline of the stud, so the circle will not change (still 5 X 130).
BUT, that is also why it is important to insure that the new stud adapter is installed straight, so for that you’ll need, at least, a drill press with a table that can hold the hub flat while being drilled and tapped, or a machinist set up to do the same (It’s a piece of cake for them and should take less than 30 minutes).
To get the hub nut off, I have used Alan’s technique of cramming a long pry bar between wheel studs to use as a lever to torque against, but have graduated, in the name of safety, to a 2” wide X 4’ long X 1/4” thick piece of flat steel stock (Lowes/Home Depot) with two holes drilled to accept two hub studs, then spin on a couple of wheel lug nuts to hold it in place. THEN use a 1/2” bat handle on a 36mm socket with a 4’ - 6’ piece of heavy wall iron pipe on the bat handle as a leverage extender/amplifier to gently remove the nut. A “Torque Meister” is not required. Actually, I have heard of more stripped nuts and studs from over-torquing with a Torque Meister than without.
For the machinist/mechanic payments - I don’t use beer a lot, as I have found that, around here, home-made chocolate chip cookies or, even better, my wife’s double chocolate brownies, work even better. Always start off with a photo of the car (that’s important), tell them what happened and what you’re trying to do and simply ask for help. That always works for me.