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Reply to "Wide 5 conversion on long axle spyder? Other options?"

Yeah, thanks for that list, it's very complete, Carey.

Carey is 100% on target about the fulcrum plates, and also about the paper gaskets/shims for the proper setup of the axle tube play. You want the axles to be able to move freely, no play and no bind. That's why they include 3 shims per side in the gasket kits.

I prefer to use the one-piece factory style NON-SEAMED boots too. You can get them over the bell end of the axle tube(inside out) WITHOUT pressing the bearing retainer off the axle tubes. They are the only ones that don't leak IMHO. Use a couple pry bars. I wrap my pry bars with tape so there are no sharp edges on the rubber.

Anyway, if anybody needs to do this in the northeast, I can help.

For special tools, you'll need a large 2-arm puller to get the axle tube/bearing to slide off the axle. DON'T attempt to get it off with a hammer. The puller walks it off easily with no damage.

You'll also require a BEEFY pair of snap-ring pliers to remove the snap ring in the differential to pull the axles. I use a cheap pair of those 12" LONG long-nose pliers with the tips ground to a round point like a snap-ring tool.

A 36mm socket and a big wrench to turn it. I bought a 3/4" socket set just for this purpose. That should do it for special tools.

I do use silicone sealant on the axle tube retainers. I use the grey gear-oil resistant type. On the other trans gaskets I use the copper gasket spray. That stuff is an AWESOME invention. Comes right off on disassembly. And seals well.

It's a lot easier to install the axles with the trans on an engine stand, but it CAN be done in the car, I've done it a few times.

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