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My AC hose seems to be leaking at the connection so the hose goes into this connector and it seems the connector is not tight enough and is leaking.  Since, I know nothing on these does anyone on the list have experience.  Wise ones  

 

Yellow dye is showing the leak . ac Issue

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Last edited by IaM-Ray
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But depending on how bad it is, just adding a can of gas every summer doesn’t seem like a bad solution.

Oh, you have the tree huggers running in circles yelling "ozone layer depletion, the world ends in 10 years!"  On my Toyota - where hard aluminum cable parts joint there was a silicone/rubber O-ring plus the tightening nut bit.  I had to replace to get a good seal.  If its the flexible hydraulic line where it's crimped on - suspect like Stan said it needs a new cable -- or the end replaced (might be able to do on the car). 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

@Stan Galat I was wondering if a gear clamp, the good ones,  with sometype of sealant could be done to completely encase the joint and seal it.  Kind of like molding a rubber or sillicone encasement.   Ear mold silicone the stuff is like unbelievable in keeping a shape. 

J-Weld ? 

The hose is the major hose coming from the engine and I am sure that I would have a lot of fun to change it.   Just saying.  

 

Ray, in my experience I've had very poor luck trying to get a long lasting reseal of a crimped AC connector. Another option is to just cut off the last foot or so of the big hose and have a short replacement end made up. You can connect two same sized hoses together with special screw clamps and a short piece of pipe. Exact length and location depends on where you have the best access to the hose and where it creates the least amount of stress on the connection.

Mike

IaM-Ray posted:

@Stan Galat I was wondering if a gear clamp, the good ones,  with sometype of sealant could be done to completely encase the joint and seal it.  Kind of like molding a rubber or sillicone encasement.   Ear mold silicone the stuff is like unbelievable in keeping a shape. 

J-Weld ? 

The hose is the major hose coming from the engine and I am sure that I would have a lot of fun to change it.   Just saying.  

 

So-- short answer is, "do you have any confidence of these various repairs holding 250 psi in a vibrating and hot condition?" I don't.

As you know, the crimped connection is leaking. If you can fit a hydraulic hose crimp set-up in there, you might be able to re-crimp it. Alternately, you can cut it off at the end of the collar, and try to cut the ferrule off of the fitting, get another ferrule, push the (shortened) hose onto the fitting, and re-crimp the new ferrule.

... or just bite the bullet and get a new hose.

The question isn't "why is it leaking". The question I have is why some of them don't.

Gordon Nichols posted:

Makes your phone a "Not-so-smart" phone then, huh?

We have mandatory yellow alerts etc on our phone I actually want to go back to a plain phone and use a smart tablet .   They call or alert in the wee hours of the morning.

The left wingers here don’t believe in giving you choice or allow you to use your phone as a. Alarm clock.

IaM-Ray posted:

Anyone use this product ?  Red Angel  @Stan Galat

Stop leak solutions for refrigeration systems are a last-gasp effort for when a leak is buried in a cold wall or some place where the entire thing would need replaced to fix it.

You know where your leak is, and it's on a hose. I would never recommend putting something into the system that could (and in all likelihood, would) restrict or plug the metering device (TXV). I know you don't want to, but just replace the hose, or add gas as needed to top it A/C system off. R134a is about $3/lb wholesale, and I'll bet your system holds less than 3 lbs.

You may do as you wish, but quick fixes almost never work.

Well it goes from the engine, under the rocker panel with other hoses and coolant hoses, then via the wheelwell, then under the dash and it is tied at every point.  So while it can be done if I can make a small patch hose,  if there is not enough hosing left after I cut the end off, it could be much easier.  Then again, your right in that I need to evacuate it and after it is done recharge it.   Just a lot of fun, like carbs  

Update on the AC fix.  

I was able to find a supplier near Bob who carried this new line so I bought enough to change the hose from under the dash to the engine compartment. This hose was a #10 but I bought the straight connectors like below. 

@David Stroud IM Roadster D Thanks for the recommendation of your mechanic in Stittsville who recommended Vern Hinton nearby who was able to get me a Male end and cut the old hose end and weld the male fitting unto my compressor metal aluminum hose. 

Here is his really neat weld and after I reattached it to the AC compressor.  You can see the plastic bag to seal it till I get at it. 

Next a complete hose change and run it to the AC underdash unit. 


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My issue was the #10 hose with the normal crimped fittings was being torqued continually and eventually leaked so it seemed fruitless to just repeat it and leave the stress on the new fitting. 

So this fitting below was cut and welded to the compressor end.  Now I can use the new flexible hose which will have no stress on the end connectors.  BTW the new DIY connectors are pretty neat and the bonus is I can fix it myself. 

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