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Carlos, yes, thermostat. Wix 1515 or NAPA 51515. Forget the R, it's wasted money for less filtration. This year I used 10W40 oil. You'll get lower startup pressures and cooler running. Believe it. 20W50 is not needed unless you live in Florida or the desert.

 

RE: wipers, I use mine and they have saved my bacon in downpours. Of course, I do have a top. But I have driven in the rain without the top, and they help there as well. In torrential rain, you will get some mist on the backside of the windshield, so I carry a towel in the door.

 

Cheers!

The other day I was driving along on a clear blue day and all of a sudden I enter a fog bank. It was the thickest stuff I've ever seen. I could barely see the road. I had to wipe both sides of the windshield. It was scary. I turned around immediately. I was afraid someone in a truck wouldn't see my small gray car and push me off the mountain. I might give those wipers a chance sometime. Rain X doesn't work too well for mist.

 

I figured out my no brake light situation. The switch at the master cylinder is bad. I thought it'd be that damned module again, but my investigation found it to be the switch. Not the easiest thing to get to. I'm wondering, when I remove it, could I just fill the hole with brake fluid before screwing the new one in, and avoid having to rebleed the system? mmmmmmm

Yeah, the quality of brake light pressure switches is declining. I'm on my third one in ten years. Yes, if you are ready with the new one, you can swap it without bleeding. Some fluid will leak out, and bleeding is usually not needed.

 

I got rid of the trailer light thing a long time ago. I'm surprised Greg still uses them. Mine burned out on me a couple times. I use a bunch of Bosch-type relays and a single heavy duty 2 terminal flasher to run things. Changed it out for relays in 2010, not a single problem since.

 

It's just one of the things on a LONG list I've changed over the years, for the better.

Last edited by DannyP

I was wondering if there was a way around that module. My list is getting long.

 

I just found a mechanical switch that'll get rid of that hydraulic one.

http://www.watsons-streetworks...ng-off-the-juice.pdf

I'm sure I could fabricate something.

 

My son is coming over for Turkey day. It'll be the first time he sees this car in person. I'm sure he'll want to go for a ride. He's a gearhead too. Maybe I can rig two wires and have him hold them and when I say brake, touch them together. Haha

Alan Merklin posted:

The WIX 51515R or NAPA 1515R is a Race use filter and ( per the warning on the filter/box) Not for street use.....one has to decide the micron difference of possibly join in the Veldez clean up.

May go against the grain but I do run the WIX and Shell Rotella 30 weight diesel oil

Funny, Alan but I've been using Wix 15 or Napa51 series 'R' filters for a lot of years in all my cars including our daily drivers and have never once had a failure of a filter, oil pump or engine...twice I've blown out Fram filters in the old '55 Chevy at the strip.

I'll stick with what has worked well for me ..just sayin'...maybe I've just been lucky

 

Last edited by G.R.

To further what I said above, maybe put an oil pressure sender just past the filter (and maybe 1 before it as well to compare) and see what the pressure is? If you have a good look inside the fittings, some really cut off the flow and could be your problem. And even stainless stell braided hose can swell internally and cut off flow if it's rubber lined (a good reason to buy the more expensive teflon lined stuff). I believe a team campaigning a 935 (late '70's or early 80's?) sold an engine cheap after the 2nd or 3rd grenade, and the new owner figured out it the hose was starving the engine.  Al

Last edited by ALB

I agree with Alb re: teflon oil hose, expensive, but can really save an engine or an oil spill...LOL. Not having an oil pressure gauge that you can easily see(sure it may not be period correct sitting in or under the dash) yet  IMO is just asking for a problem or a whole lot of problems. Loss of oil pressure or to much oil pressure are not conducive to engine life which can result in $$$$$ or more spent and when it goes you are usually between "Wayoutback and Nowheresville", out of cell range and have your not so happy significant other with you

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