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I'm just curious as to what those of you who know the type 1 engines have to say about these engines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Complete-Motor-2110-trike-sand-rail-bug-speedster-/270306886550?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3eef8bc396
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I would stay away from these based on little tidbits like "approximately 150 hp" (no way!) and "brand new generator strap" (that's a significant feature?) and "rebuilt heads" on a "150 hp engine" that is running a single carb. 150 hp is not an easy number to achieve with dual carbs, larger well ported heads, and more cc's....net is IMO too much marketing hype with not enough hardware to do the job.....
Everybody's got an opinion, but here's mine:

The VW powertrain the these cars is their greatest strength, as well as the greatest liability.

If you just want a nice, cool looking beach cruiser- then a stock (or near stock) 1600 will be just fine. Throw some ICTs and an EMPI exhaust on it, and call it good. Engines like this are cheap and plentiful, and make about 75 hp no matter what anybody says.

However, if you want something to rival an older 911 (or fill-in-the-blank), then it's going to take something more. A lot more. When you start talking about more than 100 hp, economy really does go out the window. It takes serious money to build serious power out of an engine designed to be at its practical limit at 1600 cc and about 60 hp.

The great liability of the ACVW as a powerplant is when a guy wants 100+ hp, but still thinks of a Type 1 as being an economical engine. Unfortunately, there are many, many, (many) guys just waiting to take your money, and promise big numbers for small change.

It isn't so. In a Type 1, 100 reliable turnkey horsepower retails at about $5K, and takes a lot of work to get there. Every pony after that will cost about $30-50 and becomes increasingly more difficult to get. If you want it done more cheaply, you'll need to do the work yourself- nobody is making Lambo payments on what they are grossing building big number Type 1 engines. If somebody claims they can do it for a bunch less, they are cutting corners.

It's the Achilles heel of the speedster replica. Torque is like a drug, and the Type 1 will only get you so high before it starts demanding some serious coin to feed the habit- but most VW folks are too cheap to want to pay what it takes, and the charlatans and hucksters step into the breach with $2900 2110s.

I'm talking from experience- I'm the cheapest man alive. I've made every mistake a guy can make in this regard. I've thrown many thousands of dollars at a platform that just doesn't like to make reliable power, and I'm WAY past the point of no return.

Jake Raby had it pegged 10 years ago, but we were all too "smart" to listen. The Type 4 fixes all the problems with the Type 1, and is a much better foundation to start building on. A RAT Type 4 can make 200 reliable horsepower, and more importantly that much reliable torque. We all live and learn, but my recommendation is to stick with the simple, small, 75 hp boat anchor that most cars come with, and then pull the trigger on a big 'ol Type 4 when the bug bites hard.

I'm FAR too committed to what I've got to go this direction, but I'm telling you what I've seen. Do it right the first time, and save yourself a lot of grief.
The above two posts have their validity.
IMHO The maximum I go to is a 1915cc with the crank, rods and flywheel balanced as a unit, full flow case, Engle 110 cam, mild ported heads, a good 36HP shroud and related tins, balanced race fan, add in an external Mesa 72 row cooler w/ fan, a set of $360.00 easy to dial in Kadrons, decent ignition and a good flow though exhaust.
You'll enjoy 110hp with decent streetable torque, gear it right along wih the proper tire size and you're good to go.
i.e. pulling power, top end, reliability, no heat issues, do a quick price up on this and you'll see that this motor build can be done for very reasonable money.
Even the Fonz approves this message ~Alan

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Alan and tmpusfugit-

I disagree with neither of you.

An air-cooled flat 4 is a horribly expensive way to try to make 200 hp, whether it's a Type 1 or a Type 4- and yet, that is the essence of a speedster to me. A water-pumper holds little appeal. If I wanted one, I'd just buy a used Boxster S or 996 and pocket a lot of money.

I've GOT the $10K 200 hp Type 1 (and am happy), but most people should just spend the $15K for a 200 hp Type 4. Why? Because my engine behaves, and will always behave, like it's at the absolute maximum of what it can bear. My engine will go maybe 20K mi before it needs "freshened-up" and the Type 4 will go for nearly 100K mi before it needs the same. I'm weird, and get off on taking my engine out every year. If I was paying for all that, the price difference would shrink to nothing pretty quickly.

Alan has the whole thing figured out with the nicely built/economical 1914. I'd dispute the HP figure, but I'll agree that his plan makes a whole lot more sense than a $2900 2110, or a $10K 2332.

I guess the experience gained from your 19 (or whatever) speedsters trumps my 3.
Troy,

I bet Roland can do all of the items that Alan mentioned for a reasonable amount. Just have him rebuild one of the phat tubs you have now and put a real exhaust system on it. Bob and I went all the way or should I say 85% of the way that Stan did. You can spend 30 to 40% of what we did and get 100 HP range that Alan mentioned.

The 1915 cc 85HP that Vintage advertises on their website is only like 55 hp to the wheels.
Older German mechanic once said " In goes the good air, out goes the bad~"
Good carbs that are set up correctly, heads that flow well, correct cam for the application and a full flow exhaust, makes decent torque.
I have a different flared speedster body here (Auto Classico) that will get the above 1915 motor, I should have it completed for Carlisle ~Alan

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