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This is what I got off my old engine. I need to rebuild the carbs. Any suggestions on changing anything while I'm rebuilding them? My rebuilt 1776 has a slightly radical cam. The main thing I'm looking for is "daily driving" abilities, getting up hills and long freeway stretches. Not speed. I know they're gas hogs, but I'd like to get as best mileage as I can.

Thanks for any and all advice,
David
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This is what I got off my old engine. I need to rebuild the carbs. Any suggestions on changing anything while I'm rebuilding them? My rebuilt 1776 has a slightly radical cam. The main thing I'm looking for is "daily driving" abilities, getting up hills and long freeway stretches. Not speed. I know they're gas hogs, but I'd like to get as best mileage as I can.

Thanks for any and all advice,
David
Write John Connely, owner of aircooled.net John can give expert advice on setting up those 44s correctly for a 1776. He can supply you with whatever you may want. BTW, if you are eventually looking at a building a bigger CC engine then the 44s are a keeper. Otherwise I'd trade around for some 40s. That's what I run after trying ICTs. The ICTs were great carbs, but didn't squirt the juice for my PP CB-044 heads and 120 cam.

Also look at changing your 4th gear for the freeways, maybe also go to a 3:88 r/p, unless you do stoplight racing.

Jim

David, look down about 10 titles on this forum to Kadron or Webers. On that post I posted the set up Art Thraen "the man" on webers used on my 1776 engine with 44's that is "built". They run very smooth and strong with good milage. If you need any help you can call Art at (801) 943 1234. Eddie
(Message Edited 7/31/2003 12:32:14 PM)
Initial setup is pretty simple. Start with the 36 ventruris, F11 emulsion tubes (44 IDF's usually come with those). I would try a 52.5 idle jet, 140 main jet, 185 air jet and 50 pump squirter. If you have 40mm intake valves and a mild cam that should be very close to right. Use the stock float level settings: 10mm "top" and 32mm "drop".
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