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2017 Build, 1957 Speedster Replica for sale.  $28,900.00

2332 flat 4cyl motor. Est. 200-220hp.  See build specs below. Motor has $12-14K alone in it.

Silver over black, 1,600 miles. Garage stored. Has never seen rain or snow.

New paint, interior, carpet and seats.

New Python exhaust,

Rancho matched 4 speed, welded gear transmission

Brand new wheel bearings all around. 9/2018

Brand new Ball Joints 9/2018

Brand new OEM steering box and pittman arm 9/2018

New disk brake adjustments and lubed sliders. 9/2018

New oil breather and all new oil lines. 9/2018

Brand new Upper and lower crankcase seals.

New Oil cooler seals and hoses

Brand new Tachometer 9/2018

New 4 wheel alignment and rear suspension adjustments IRS suspension.

The steel sub frame was replaced with a heavy wall aluminium 2 x 4 and 2 x 2 box frame (approx. 150 lbs. lighter) bolted to a lowered '66 chassis.

4 wheel disc brakes.

Lightweight Fiberglass Body

Paint is 2017 GM Artic silver with black seats.

Interior storage lowered StayFast top and side curtain windows.

Wide five black and polished Fuchs style wheels,

Driving lights , bee hive tail lights.

Brand New All stainless Mesh Healight Screens

louvered deck lid with a cockpit dash mounted 2" lift electric actuator for additional cooing, (raise and lower the engine hood while driving for cooling) Emergency release under wheel well.

Shaved door handles w/ electric door popper,

Dash changes ( 356 speedometer and multi gauges are refurbished oem, Tachomter is brand new 9/21/2018.

Deleted bumpers, Ray Dot mirrors and custom Margard side curtain windows.

Floor Mats,

Simpson Racing seat belts.

 

Engine Specs: 2332cc Flat 4 cyl. Motor.

Weber 86A Cam Compression is set at  (8:1) for everyday drivability. 

Dual Weber 48mm carbs

All engine steel parts cryogenic treated inclusive of the camshaft, crank, all valve springs, all head bolts, rods, rod bolts piston wrist pins

Ported CB Performance Competition Eliminator heads, combustion chamber is ceramic coated as are valves and exhaust ports.

Dual springs, with Pauter Billet roller rocker arms 1.4:1 ratio, with roller tips. (These heads flow a lot of air and fuel)

JE Pistons forged dish tops,10cc dish with ceramic coated tops and graphite coated skirts

Nikasil 94 mm cylinders by LN engineering

Ceramic lifters

H Rods, CB Performance  5.7” length

Aluminum double tapered pushrods,  

Serpentine belt drive

CB Performance 7mm high deck aluminum super case built for 94mm cylinders, with 10mm case savers and sand seal

ARP head bolts and rod bolts etc.10mm

Extra capacity oil pump (36mm) Aircooled.net

Raby Aircooled Technology DTM body color matched cooling shroud

CB alternator with welded fan

CB Performance straight cut steel cam drive gears

Rod bearings Chevy 2”

4340 crankshaft from CB Performance nitrated with Chevy rod journals

Cam bearings, Gene Berg, dual thrust

Ignition Electronic w/coil

Flywheel is forged steel. Lightened (CB Performance)

Starter: Hi-Torque (CB Performance)

96 row fan forced oil cooler with type IV in shroud cooler, external remote WIX oil filter.

Exhaust is stainless steel 48mm Python by CSP with J tubes also 48mm

CSP center pull carb linkage

The bearings are all Polydyne coated, the crank, case, and rods are all treated/coated with Oil Shed

Battery New 4/2018

 

ESTIMATED 200-220HP.

 

The Good, bad and ugly.

The good, newer build in 2017. Fresh paint, interior etc. Motor is strong, puts out HP, Some neat features w the motorized engine hood etc., New Oil lines, seals, breather, tachometer, etc. New top, side windows and wheels/Tires. Battery New. New wheel bearings, ball joints, steering box and pittman arms. WHY ALL THE WORK? I wanted the car to perform better, it has a lot of HP and deserves to drive tight and fun. The car basically had an entire PPE done over the last few weeks, and it has passed well.

 

The bad/ugly. It has on paint chip on the rear near the tail light and during transport of the car,(went round and round w the shipper) the dash panel cracked down low. Neither one of these is structural in nature. No rust obviously on fiberglass.  There is a filler guage in the dash that doesn’t operate, is just a filler. WAS going to change it out for a clock, but decided to sell the car. Like all of these motors, it has an occasional oil drip, I just had the entire oil system gone through, new sump seals, oil cooler seals, lines, breather etc. Its as good as it can get. The ugly, I need to sell the car. Where its priced, Im taking a slight loss but I understand the market. Hoping to give it a good home.

Additional photos on request. 

 speedster1mys1mys2mys3mys4mys6mys0

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Last edited by Ndpendant
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

yes 3.88.  A little from the engine builder...

I had a 3.44 rear end in the Spyder with this engine.  You have a 3.88 IIRC.  Not certain that is of any importance but is a minor difference.  I went with the 3.44 so I could do the 0-60 in first gear with no shift.  Worked out nice.  I had the most fun with rolling starts, say about 30 mph rolling start. I never limited the throttle travel.  I went all out a few times.  As others have said this engine as set up needs not do over 6500 rpm in my thinking.  I never dynoed the engine but the seat of the pants dyno suggested it peaked a bit over 6000 rpm. And given the performance from 1000 rpm to 6000+/- I was perfectly happy.

Over the time since I built it I have noticed a number of questions  over some of the seemingly strange choices I made.  However, I had some fair degree truly professional advice in the selections made before I finalized the specs.  I had some input from people who have experience with both NASCAR and Formula 1 engines. Not that they knew beans about horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engines. But they did know a lot of things about performance engines.

The goal was to produce about 225 hp, have a lot of low-end torque, behave reasonably well as a street engine, and last 100,000 miles.  While it was in the Spyder I felt like I had achieved what I set out to do.  The Nickies, the ceramic lifters, the oil system, the PolyDyne coatings, ceramic and graphite coatings, Oil Shed, and the cryogenic treatments were all to control heat and reduce wear.   I had all 4 cylinders with a temp sensor and the heads never hit more than the lower end of normal.  The high efficiency of the Nickies at dissipating heat helped keep the head temps under control I think. Low end torque was excellent, and street performance was over the top in my limited experience. 

rayspang posted:

Market is kicking my rear end right when I was wanting to join the speedster madness.

This, right here, is the story of my investment life. Every kid went to college or got married right in the middle of a correction.  The downturns corresponded nicely with slowdowns in business. It rattled me enough to pull money out of the market at the very time i should have been jumping in.

We're overbought right now, and it's showing. Locally, CAT had a record 3rd quarter and beat projections-- the market gave it a 7% haircut yesterday for being profitable.

OK, in all seriousness-- I'm not sure everybody is aware of how special this car really is.

Jim Dubois built the engine and the aluminum frame-- both are off-the-chart cool. The engine has LN Nickies and Shubeck ceramic lifters (which have been unobtanium for 10 years). The engine alone, as it sits would be $15K+, assuming you could get all of it together, which you can't. 

The Aluminum frame keeps the car in Spyder-weight territory (I believe it's under 1600 lbs as it sits). No amount of money could replicate that.

I've never driven this thing, but I wanted to buy it before Alan did his magic on it, and I've got a car I'll probably never sell. If you are looking for something really, really special and unique, this is the one.

It's that special.

+1 what Stan said. It's way underpriced still given its particulars.

Special cars require special buyers though, so that sometimes takes some time.

imho, the value proposition here is as follows:

Option A. Slightly used, mostly sorted bone stock Vintage with a 100-horse 1915 and unspecified "freeway flyer" trans. $26,000

Option B. Nicely gone-through Merklin or Troy Sloan car: $25-28k depending on options

Option C. This car. A Merklin-sorted car with ALL THE THINGS and also THINGS NO ONE ELSE CAN EVEN EVER GET. SAME PRICE!!!

Again, the problem is that THE THINGS are obscuranta to the Speedster newbie (and even to many Speedster oldsters). You can't see the nickies or the aluminum subframes; all the shiny is on the inside—literally. 

So a car that's objectively worth at least mid-high 30s sits at $28k. . . .

Hope not for much longer.

 

 

Ndpendant posted:

Stan, Edsnova, thank you for your kind input.  I grew up a kart and motorcycle drag racer, and I can say Ive never pushed this car HARD...yeah 4k, 4,500 RPM, but I havent taken it to 6,000 because I dont want to!  Listen to the videos above, its a blast to drive, but sadly I need to part ways and have to let it go.

 

Go out and shift it at 5500-6,000 rpm, 1st through 3rd gears once, and then tell us about it.

ALB posted:
Ndpendant posted:

Stan, Edsnova, thank you for your kind input.  I grew up a kart and motorcycle drag racer, and I can say Ive never pushed this car HARD...yeah 4k, 4,500 RPM, but I havent taken it to 6,000 because I dont want to!  Listen to the videos above, its a blast to drive, but sadly I need to part ways and have to let it go.

 

Go out and shift it at 5500-6,000 rpm, 1st through 3rd gears once, and then tell us about it.

He'll come back and tell us he's not selling it if he does that. It's like any other addiction; once it has you it won't let you go.

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