Lfepardo posted:

Bob,

Sorry to hear this is causing you some madness... it’s part of the experience I guess...

- On you Q1:

 can you confirm which of the Ray recommended adaptors you purchased?  He listed two above.  The 74mm one was the Flaspower branded one..  the second one was a 70mm/momo.

description from the add:   “Half Inch Polished Billet Extension Hub/ Spacer Kit for 9 hole Steering Wheel to GM 6 hole Adapter

* The 6 Bolt is a Original GM Style. About 73.6 mm.

* The diameters of the outside ring is 113 mm (about 4.5")

* The diameter of inside ring is 60 mm (about 2.4")”

if you have the 74mm adaptor &  holes are close, sometimes all you need is to do I massage one or two of the holes a bit with a small file/ sand paper.     I had to do that with one of my adaptors... You probably need to determine with of the holes is a bit out of center.   This should be a 5 minute exercise.

if they sent you the wrong adaptor, I would go back to the seller and ask for an exchange... 

 

best way to measure is center of the hole to center of the hole.

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- On Q2:

the horn should be a pressure fit.. by your pictures it looks like you may just have to open up the gap on the horn button ( when looking at it from the back, between the horn chrome ring and the black plastic body) a bit to increase the diameter of the chrome piece on the horn.       You can use a small crew driver to open up the gap a bit.... open it up all the way around the horn ring for an even pressure fit,

also worth noting, once the horn is in place, it’s should be a tight fit.   When installed on the hub and the steering column, you will need an access hole in the adaptor to eventually remove the horn button from the hub.. by pushing it out from behind.   Most adaptors have a pilot hole where you can fit a small screw driver or 3” nail to push the button out.   If not, you can always drill one... I will dig out one of my old adaptors and post a picture for you if that’s of any help.

 It looks like your hub has a ribbed rubber piece so you may not need an access hole to push the horn button out once pressed in to the adaptor.   but do check this before bolting it all together... otherwise there will be no way to push out that horn button.

 

Answer Q1:

I purchased the first one because I made the 'assumption' that the larger diameter 6 hole pattern was 74mm. It has to be 70mm as from bolt hole center across to bolt hole center measures 2.75".     

I tried to drill out larger holes on a similar hub adapter to the one that I showed below by Forever Sharp (pictured)A01D8C90-794F-431A-9D04-6AEEAFCD8484

...the problem with that was that I could not screw the hardware into the hub adapter as the inner sidewall is in the way.

Answer Q2:

I have heard others say to bend out the three metal areas on the back of the horn button... but I don't understand how you don't push the button down into the hub adapter when pressing on it.  Look how deep it sits within the adapter... is that normal?  do I need to pack some sort of stuff in there to fill the gap between the back of the horn button and the deep void within the hub adapter?  I can see bending the button outwards a little to get it a little more snug... but what if I actually use the horn real-world, and as intended (I am shocked and press involuntarily hard and push it into the adapter)?

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Last edited by OverKILLLL Bob

bob-

q1-  sounds like they may have sent you a wrong adaptor. Since they advertise 73.6mm... if they sent you a 70mm, then you should request an exchange, confirmation they sell the 74mm adaptor.  
   As a side note- the 10$ spacer link I sent you has both 70mm and 74 mm patterns... easy bandaid.

on Q2- all horn buttons on these cars are pressure fit.- held in place only by the contact made between the silver ring and the hub adaptor.  

The chrome ring closes the circuit to make the horn button work.  The button assembly can not/should not buttom out in the hub/adaptor because there is an electrical connector at the bottom of the horn button.  If the bottom  horn button electrical connector came in touch  with the adaptor/ hub, it would close the circuit and your horn wold stay on until the contact was broken.

A foot test to see how the button assembly moves:  if you hold the horn button by the ring with one hand, you will notice you can push in on the center of the button and it ( the black piece with the Porsche logo) will freely move down about 2mm.  This is what closes the circuit and makes the horn sound in day to day operations.

i use my button regularly and have not experienced it ever sliding beyond the point where I originally pushed it in.  It should be a snub fit.

im wondering if the adaptor pictured was over machined... the hole being a bit larger than expected... 

You could always just change the hub out... while 74mm bolt pattern is a very standard Size used for all Nardi wheels, maybe best to start from scratch... and get a new hub that would work with the Grant /3 hole adaptor you already purchased.

ispwest has billet VW hubs for all the various VW beetle year columns.  Below is a sample of hub to fit a 1960-19 74 1/2 year column...

do you know what column you have?  You can tell what column you have by counting the spindles and measuring the diameter of the column at the spindle end...

for example: a beetle 60-74 1/2 column has at the Splines: Diameter: 20mm, Spline Count: 40

https://www.vwispwest.com/GA-9...l?p=c3E9U3RlZXJpbmc=

also worth noting, beetle and bus columns are different.. different diameter and spindle count... confirm what is installed before going down this path.

if you don’t have a caliper in hand to measure diameter/ spacing... harbour  freight always has them on sale for less than 15$.

Last edited by Lfepardo

Oh... on the horn button front... most of the reproduction horn buttons range in diameter between 81mm- 84mm... anecdotal data after talking to other owners.

web sites advertise them between 82mm and 84mm.

quality control never ideal... check the inner diameter of the adaptor and the outer diameter of the horn button.   Once you get them to be about the same, the button will snugly fit in place,

3E4345AE-7D0C-41A9-AEE9-8767716C99845E06D066-EA5D-4E56-91F9-B958FB4C9F94593956D4-7589-496D-8B5B-49E90B649B355820732B-BB13-47BE-A365-74F4692866E1Okay. I got aggressive as 6 months of screwing with this and waiting weeks for different failed parts has become unacceptable.

 Below is my solution!  I drilled out and countersink the holes I needed on one of my previous failed parts and it worked 😅

Madness!!!

Attachments

Images (4)

Awesome!!!!!  Looks great.

it is a madness, but what a wonderfully rewarding one once a project is complete.

cheers

Bob, will you be able to push the horn button from behind for removal?

... awesome job with “possible solution#3)- drill your own holes”.   Power tools are our friends with these cars, where every job needs a little massaging!!!

...oh... the new shifter knob looks great next to the wheel. 

Lfepardo posted:

Bob, will you be able to push the horn button from behind for removal?

... awesome job with “possible solution#3)- drill your own holes”.   Power tools are our friends with these cars, where every job needs a little massaging!!!

...oh... the new shifter knob looks great next to the wheel. 

Yes! With a carefully placed small diameter, long length screwdriver, I can go underneath the rubber covering under the steering column.  And gently push it out. 😁👍

Thanks for the compliment!  One thing at a time I will transform this ride!

OverKILLLL Bob:  It's always impressive when folks do cool stuff.  Your wheel is an example, it looks like it was a commercial kit.  Like a lot of SOCers I have the flat forehead of unintended consequences.

Whenever a project on a clown car seems straight forward, designate the place in your shop where you can throw stuff.  Also ensure the easily offended aren't within earshot of any harsh language.

Nice work, it's beer thirty, you earned it.

 

   

OverKILLLL Bob posted:
David Stroud IM Roadster D posted:

Nice job... sometimes you've got to get down and fight for stuff. Nice Cub too. Yours ?

Sorry my friend...  I’m a newer member.  “Cub”? 😅

Not knowing who you are or where from, out of curiosity I clicked on your member name and saw a selection of pics of you with your car. One you posed for was in the red and black jacket with the fur hat parked beside a Piper Cub airplane. Thought it might be yours. Cub = yellow airplane

David Stroud IM Roadster D posted:
OverKILLLL Bob posted:
David Stroud IM Roadster D posted:

Nice job... sometimes you've got to get down and fight for stuff. Nice Cub too. Yours ?

Sorry my friend...  I’m a newer member.  “Cub”? 😅

Not knowing who you are or where from, out of curiosity I clicked on your member name and saw a selection of pics of you with your car. One you posed for was in the red and black jacket with the fur hat parked beside a Piper Cub airplane. Thought it might be yours. Cub = yellow airplane

Ahhh!  There’s a guy with a few old airplanes and he let me take pictures with them. 😄

Ewatub posted:

OverKILLLL Bob:  It's always impressive when folks do cool stuff.  Your wheel is an example, it looks like it was a commercial kit.  Like a lot of SOCers I have the flat forehead of unintended consequences.

Whenever a project on a clown car seems straight forward, designate the place in your shop where you can throw stuff.  Also ensure the easily offended aren't within earshot of any harsh language.

Nice work, it's beer thirty, you earned it.

 

   

Thanks @Ewatub!!!  I knew what needed to be done, but was hoping for a manufactured, well-made piece that was ready to go.  But when in Rome...  

I get inspiration from the members here!  Thank you guys!

Yeah, we’re a pretty inspiring bunch, right now......    All sitting around, confined to the house and watching old movies on Netflix.

And now I have Cory Drake calling me and telling me to stay home and not go out or I’ll get contaminated.....

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