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So, I'm guessing this is an adjustable beam ?
A google search doesn't show anything similar. It appears that it will interfere with a front stabilizer (sway) bar I bought
Wolfgang, Thank you.
I appreciate all you guys willingness to help.
Does anybody know where I would take a measurement to tell how much (if any) it's lowered ? Also, if it's lowered this way, can I use stock shocks, or would I need "lowered" shocks ?
To decide how much it's lowered, most of us just eyeball the height of the front wheel arch versus the wheel/tire and decide what looks good. The other factor is whether the tire rubs against the underside of the body on hard dips.
As far as measuring somewhere, all cars and wheel/tire arrangements are different so what I show (with my 205/16 tires/wheels) will be different from what you see.
What, exactly, is interfering with the intended anti-sway bar, that big clevis-like thing on the bottom tube?
"Lowered" shocks are simply shorter versions of the stock shocks (sometimes slightly larger diameter, too). One problem might be that they don't allow as much downward extension of the suspension (because they're shorter). This may be an issue or not. You won't hit the suspension stops if the car body lifts - You'll reach max extension of the shock, first. I'm running my suspension pretty low on stock spindles (not "drop" spindles) with stock length shocks and everything seems to've been happy for the past 20 years.
Thank you. I have a tendency to overthink things
It initially looks like the fitting on the bottom tube will impact the sway bar. I thought I saw a post on here about installing the bar upside down. I'll be looking into that, and checking the clearance.
The Select-a-drop is really old school (before the Avis type adjusters). Only the top beam tube is cut - twice and completely through! The bottom bracket is just for bracing. You need to get some lubricant (PB Blaster) on your rusty one - if you want to ever adjust it.
Earned the nick name - Select-s-Flop due to the thru cuts.