An interesting fire suppression system

Interesting. Would love to see a video of it in action...

Are the zip ties high heat resistant?  If the heat gets enough to melt the hose which releases the agent, what's to stop the heat from melting the zip ties first thus causing the hose to fall wherever it pleases?

I too would worry about the effectiveness of this system.  I just installed a Safecraft automatic sysem in my engine bay (as used by IM).  The Safecraft unit discharges at 286 degrees F. and, being metal, gives me more confidence than this plastic arrangement.

Safecraft says it is good for a long time, as long as the guage stays in the 'green'.

Clever idea - just wonder if that's enough "gas" to extinguish a gas fire.  With a sealed engine compartment it might just be.  

$225!

mine was like $60

So is this "clean agent" pressurized within the hose and it just all blows out wherever the heat melts the hose first?

Christian makes a great point, is the melt temperature of the anchoring zip ties higher than that of the hose containing the extinguishing "clean agent"?

At first glance, I'm not impressed. Any experiences with this, anybody? Bueller, Bueller?

THOSE ZIP TIES ARE EVENTUALLY GOING TO GIVE WAY

The only extinguishing agent is contained within the length of the tube itself, that’s not enough volume. Like any decnet fire extinguisher, you need capacity.  The bigger the better.  With no additional agent reservoir, thats a few seconds of discharge at best, totally dependant on the size of the failure in the tube?  So think something like, phfffft , , , , , , and done.  It might extinguish a small fuel fire, in a small space for a second or two, but it has not cooled the heat sources inherent within an engine bay and if the fuel is still leaking, re-ignition will be a reality.

Then directionality and spray pattern become issues, (as will the cable ties)  OK, the tube fails and releases the agent, what’s to say it is actually directed at the fire and not spraying it against the firewall?  Again, this might work (extinguish) within an air tight space, but the air-cooled engine bay is fairly well ventilated, we hope.

A quick check of the web site and itmakes no mention what the “clean agent” is, so it’s hard to predict what might actually happen.  And the web site makes no mention of any product testing, certification or listed by any independent 3^rd parties testing labs within this country, or any others from what I can tell?

And, no demonstration videos of it working, wonder why?

I'm out.

bin55 points out some veeery valid questions...What is it??...a simplistic tube with something in it valued at well over 200 dollars!!!

Hummm?

I'll bet there are a dozen chemical knowledgeable members on this forum that could duplicate this primitive 'extinguisher' for less than 30 dollars...including a two color confidence inspiring instruction sheet.

I'm always curious about simple and effective solutions to problems. I checked out the web-site for this product and it seems to work on a small fires-per the videos anyway.

I wouldn't disclaim this product out-right. I guess the bottom-line is to have good car insurance.

Scott:

I would imagine that their website is designed with sales generation in mind. I looked at the videos on the Blazecut website.

That said, an independent, third party, test or evaluation would be beneficial.I am certain there are testing labs for fire suppression systems just like there are for electronics, etc. (Underwriters Laboratories for instance.) For me, two guys who want to sell this thing to me   setting fire to old truck in a junkyard isn't quite the standard I'd accept.

I wouldn't buy this thing without that independent testing and trust that my car was safe. Note there is no sign of a guarantee or indication that they really back this thing up. It is what they don't say or advertise that makes me wary.

I'd be much more likely to invest in a tried and true system, though probably considerably more costly, than toss out $200.00 plus because this thing is popular in Europe so the seller says. I don't have any interest in any company that sells fire suppression systems so I don't have an axe to grind.

I also don't have an interest in buying a product that seems "iffy" in it's ability to protect my car, at best.

Only my opinion and virtually worthless to anybody but me.

Bob G...I buy into the opinion you expressed.

Hopefully, no one would seriously consider purchasing an unproven unit such as this.  This "extinguisher" is probably legal to sell ony in instances where an extinguisher is not required.  Note that extinguishers in the US are tested, rated, and qualified by ANSI (American National Standards Institute), UL (Underwriters Laboratory), and NFPA (National Fire Protection Association).  That's how we get extinguisher ratings, such as ABCD, I, II, etc. that tell the consumer what type and size of fire this unit is made for.  

This extinguisher contains no rating and claims that its flammability is what makes it effective, since it will melt at the hottest spot of the fire.  In addition, there is no inspection gauge that indicates the level of "clean agent" present.  This is the worst kind of subterfuge, since the buyer will now think that he is protected.  Avoid at all costs, but I'm sure you guys already knew that.  If you want adequate fire protection, spend a few bucks on an approved system or extinguisher, develop an adequate maintenance and inspection program, and hope you never need the extinguisher. 

As I said, for a lot of the reasons above, I put my money into a Safecraft unit.  Sturdy and proven.  I ordered the one designed for a 911, and it fits right into the engine compartment on the firewall.

Bob:

I just reviewed the Safecraft site. I can see why that was your choice. Which system did you install, and how difficult was it? Where did you mount the canister?

thanks,

Bob:

I mounted it on the firewall, so the nozzles (one at each end of the canister) are right above the carbs, as I understand that's where most fires begin.  I got the idea after seeing Henry install it in some of his cars.

It's item 50-1025, 26.25 inches, for a Porsche 911.  I realize it's overkill for my car, but better to be safe than sorry.  They aren't cheap, but it's good insurance.

Tom Blankinship has also installed one in his Speedster.  Halon seems to be the best/cleanest fire suppression agent, although I trust I will never have to use. it. 

Thanks Bob. This thread made me start thinking that I ought to take some extra precautions, particularly since I am having some carb issues and, in the two VW fires I have experienced one was at the carb and one was when the in line fuel filter spit the fuel line out and.... you get the picture. Cooked my 65 van.

The site had an MSDS. The agent is Hexafluoropropane a liquified gas.  The byproduct of combustion is Hydrogen fluoride which is (according to Wickipedia):

"Hydrogen fluoride is a highly dangerous gas, forming corrosive and penetrating hydrofluoric acid upon contact with tissue. The gas can also cause blindness by rapid destruction of the corneas."  Then a little dab of H2O and....

" Aqueous hydrofluoric acid is a contact-poison with the potential for deep, initially painless burns and ensuing tissue death. By interfering with body calcium metabolism, the concentrated acid may also cause systemic toxicity and eventual cardiac arrest and fatality, after contact with as little as 160 cm² (25 square inches) of skin."

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Yikes