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I read a few pages of the train wreck on TheSamba ,

I really did not see any real world tests on this fan and Andrig stopped making them ,

So have anyone seen a long term test , or if any of them  hand grenaded  !

I like the idea , but it really puts a stop to your day driving without a working fan

And I have never had a stock VW fan  fail in 100-200k miles driving Aircooled bugs and buses.

Last edited by imperial

Andrig explains the perceived drawback of the first fan on his website blog. By his description it didn't work in a Bus with a 2110. Version 2 is back to a squirrel cage design.

He appears to be a fairly straightforward tinkerer, and I think his first version is fine for what most of us are doing. My concerns with his test method are 2:

1. it appears he's measuring air velocity/volume into the fan, not what's coming out through the bottom of the test motor. Understandable, given the complexities of the latter airstreams, but also limiting as a gauge of the fan's efficiency.

2. He's turning a fixed 3400 RPM. It's an excellent steady highway speed for testing, and great for getting consistent apples-apples data between competing fans, but limits the real-world usefulness. Is his fan also better than a welded stock fan at 2,000 RPM? Does it require more power to spin it, or less? How about at 5000? And so on.

If nothing else, he's proving, once again, what Raby claims he learned while testing the DTM shroud: these old Type 1 cooling systems are devilishly complex, and very hard to improve on.

I think he threw in the towel on his 3D printed squirrel cage.  It came apart, at 8,000 rpm I think he said, just as he was getter ready to ship them. He explains it in one of his videos.

My biggest concern with his dual fan idea is the four corner holes in the backing plate. I fixed enough tabs in my plastic welding/PDR class to recognize that as a weak point. I wonder if it would be possible to print it around some sort of metal support, even a small washer, or if that would even help.

I agreed with the testing, Ed. I’d like to know what CFM is coming out of the four holes in a type 3 “Cool Tins” set up. Also it’s great to have someone who will still tinker on these old blobs  



eta: It’s in this one. Fan broke up between 6500-7500rpm.

I’m digging the look of the double fan.



I’m going to suggest he prints them with tan plastic,  if the type he uses comes in tan. Otherwise black. (I’m sure he’s never heard that before)

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Last edited by dlearl476

Hardly anything, unfortunately.

The class was billed as PDR and I wanted to take it to, hopefully, get a dent out of my Ducati tank it suffered when a Suburban backed into it and knocked it over in Manhattan.

It was the first time it was taught and the instructor spent most of the semester on plastic welding, which was also cool to learn.

He broke out the picks and hammers about the last 1.5 weeks of class and we played around with them. I suspect he was waiting on a bunch of suction vices to show up that never did. While the pick and hammer technique works, the suction pliers are twice as effective.

I bought a kit from Eastwood and watched all those YouTube videos myself and I’ve been trying to get with my son to use it on his hail-damaged Audi before I mess with my 968.

I had a bunch of PDR done on my cars when I lived in Las Vegas and it’s pretty amazing what they can do.  

Last edited by dlearl476

Ah, thanks.  I probably should have been able to figure that out since I recently wondered if it could be used to fix ice storm damage to my car.

Like a lot of things, it’s up to the skill of the craftsman. A rule of thumb they taught us in the class is that anything that doesn’t break the paint surface can be repaired.


The guy I used in Las Vegas was a master.  Appropriately named Chad Dents, he told me German metal is the best. Like butter. I had him come by twice and he took out door dings etc from my 968, ML 320, and Alfa. It was ~$200 for an hour and a half’s worth of work. He usually charged $50\panel, but my stuff was so slight he gave me a break.

Pro Tip: Ask a Ferrari or Lamborghini dealer who they use. That’s how I found Chad.

If you have the chance watch a PDR guy in action, they are truly artists. They project intense light with lines onto the panel that looks like a " music staff " working the repair until the lines are perfectly straight.  I had a black Harley Davidson F-150 with dozens of hail dings in the roof and hood. when PDR repaired,  it was like a mirror.

Last edited by Alan Merklin
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