Mechanic insist that no clamps are needed.I drove 500 miles ,then lost all oil very fast which caused the following which is what mechanic stated
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Yep, a .50c clamp for just peace of mind would be worth it. You don't need a fire extinguisher either, but each of my cars has one.
Greg built my Vintage speedster, and it had the push on hoses to the same fittings you have. Greg said they would be fine. After you posted your photo, I went out and bought the appropriate-sized clamps and installed. The top clamp onto the hose of the added oil cooler I requested for the build t ook a little arm-stretch work, but I am 100% in agreement with Theron. 4 clamps, $4 bucks, 30 min. install vs $$$$ for a new or rebuilt engine. Peace of mind. Priceless.
Some pics. First of all, be certain I think Greg L. does a superb job on both cars and communication. My car: 1915, standard upgrades of crank, cam for Solex but used Kadrons, etc., added Marchal spots, 3.88 rear, luggage (got straps from Dusty may he rest well)m white banjo, 12v recep, used Ravenol 20/50 oil, vintage radio, on and on. A blast to drive, cold-blooded, couple of drops of oil from the back now and again, part of the beast. This site and its institutional knowledge are immeasurable in help and scope. I'm sorry JPC learned the hard way...but often those who go before us...save us. All of you are valued assets.
Thanks for your thoughts. I am converting back to Woodford and Porsche did when he first designed this Volkswagen engine. No external oil coolers. Even though I’m in Arizona I don’t drive it in 110° weather and I don’t Race
I’ve got a very simple 1600 on my 1952 MG TDA. Presently putting in new harness,but it -3 degrees in Wisconsin Where are the MG is so it will have to wait till May.
Push lock fittings are designed to be used without a clamp and for a 1/2" hose (-8AN) it should hold a pressure up to roughly 250psi without issue (varies greatly with manufacturer and quality/spec of hose also). HOWEVER that also means it was used with the proper hose and installed properly. As a general rule of thumb if you can push a push lock in by hand, you didn't do it right for high pressure applications, you have a mismatch is hose, or you have the wrong hose! They make push lock tools for installing push lock fittings. Essentially a hand held vice designed to insert these fittings. They STRETCH a braided hose when installing, which isn't easy to do. I see some slight "bumps" in your fitting that is still installed, but not what I would expect to see form this type of fitting. I'm not saying you cannot install them by hand. I've seen guys get one started and then put all their body weight into it, or grease them up in order to get them to slide in better, but I would not advise either of these techniques...
That said, I don't like to use push lock fittings at all, just my preference, but if/when requested the only time I would go clampless would be on a no pressure system (breather) or a low pressure system (carb fuel lines) and not a higher pressure system like oil or EFI. As mentioned above, a cheap clamp is simple insurance... or just uses wedged or thread in fittings and have peace of mind.
“That said, I don't like to use push lock fittings at all, just my preference, but if/when requested the only time I would go clampless would be on a no pressure system (breather) or a low pressure system (carb fuel lines) and not a higher pressure system like oil or EFI. As mentioned above, a cheap clamp is simple insurance... or just uses wedged or thread in fittings and have peace of mind.”
I wholeheartedly agree with all of this. Thanks, Carey!
Exactly. I'm still trying to figure out why we have TWO threads about this. The answer is VERY clear.
With the lovely Spring weather of late, I decided to go through all the oil lines.
Added some quality single ear crimp clamps to my lines for piece of mind.
Tossed on the Berg breather box, vented the case and the 1/2 valve cover.