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OK it seems like my year old battery (installed from new) maybe on the fritz.  Anyone else experienced this with VS batteries?  Is there a better solution to the installed Centennial 65 Months(?) that anyone would recommend? Is there a way to get a refund on the battery or exchange now that Kirk has retired? This car is too cool/pretty to be jump-started! 

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Take it somewhere (Autozone) and have it tested.  A cell can go bad even on a new-ish battery.  A discharged battery in freezing IL winter can be certain death which is why trickle chargers are recommended (or taking it inside where it doesn't freeze).  Is there a Centennial dealer near by - it probably has in-service date stamped on top BUT many warranties are prorated where you can get a better different battery cheaper.

Many use the new gel cell batteries or smaller motorcycle batteries (just depends what it takes to crank your engine).

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Whether or not you get your battery prorated and you replace it, consider replacing it with an Optima battery. I have a redtop in mine and I have had zero issues since I replaced it. You might also consider a bleu top Optima. These are marine grade and have a much slower discharge rate while stored. Optima batteries aren't cheap but they're great batteries.

After you replace the battery consider getting a high quality trickle charger. Preferably one that doesn't just put a full power charge on it all the time. Good ones have charging modes and storage modes that cycle your battery to keep them at optimum health.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery...e68f04b809eb87c4378f

 

I agree about the Optima batteries.  Especially the fancy French “bleu” top marine grade battery Robert M mentioned!

Trickle chargers are an excellent option as well if your car sits for long periods of time.  I make it a point to start my VS, and drive it if possible, at least once a week.  I’ve gone as long a month or so without starting it up and I still haven’t had any issues.

I also anticipate replacing my battery every 3 years or so depending on use.  Sometimes it’s sooner, sometimes it’s later depending on what type of battery I have and how I maintain it.

If the battery is fine, it's worth noting that there is always going to be a low degree of current drain to maintain your stereo's memory and to power your alarm system's receiver so it can pick up your remote's signal.  If the car sits for long periods and isn't driven long enough to recharge, you could end up with a depleted battery.  A battery tender will fix that and you could also put a battery disconnect on the negative terminal.  It will help for quickly disconnecting the battery when doing maintenance  work and for long storage periods.  It's also an additional anti-theft device.  

Another issue could be something grounding out and causing current drain or it could be the alternator not recharging your battery.

Last edited by Ted

 

Verbieten posted:

...Is there a way to get a refund on the battery...

 

Verbieten, that fine Centennial battery (450 cold cranking amps) that came with the VS may not be the best, but these are simple cars that don't need much of a battery - unless you've installed a bazillion-watt stereo.

My original battery (probably same Centennial as yours) has gone five years now and still sounds good, although I guess I should replace it before it leaves me stranded. I'll be putting in a basic Sears DieHard (or equivalent) for about half the cost of one of the high-tech batteries.

If your battery has died after only a year, it COULD be defective, but it's more likely that it's been poorly treated, and while the high-tech batteries will take more abuse, it could be a good idea to just adopt better maintenance habits.

If you can't start it and run it for a while every two weeks or so, a trickle charger - or, better, a 'smart' battery maintainer like this - is a pretty good idea.

 

majorkahuna posted:

Battery warranties are a scam. You buy a battery with a very long warranty and it fails prematurely so you return it and pay the prorated cost for another battery that will fail prematurely. Sort of a fenced yard business strategy. 

I bought a Bosch battery from Pep Boys for my wife's Lexus. They replace the battery for free if it fails within three years of purchase. The first one developed a bad cell with one month to go and I got a free replacement. That battery also developed a bad cell 5 months shy of the three year mark and I got another free replacement. 

Stan Galat posted:

It's nice that Pep Boys honored the warranty. It would be nicer if you hadn't had 2 battery failures within 3 years.

All joke about the British Prince of Darkness but I've heard Bosch spark plugs (at least the supposed platinum ones) referred to as "Botched" plugs.  I once had a "bad" lifetime warranted brake caliper from Advance Auto.  Took it back and guy asked for receipt - ha, it was, of course, printed on thermal paper/ink.  I shuffled thru glove box and found a mostly bleached piece of paper receipt - fortunately enough was left to get new caliper with.  They bank on one selling the vehicle or losing the receipt.

Some still do.  But if you get sticker shock at the price of better quality batteries in your cranking requirements and then go for the el Cheapo model from Walmart or Costco, don’t complain when it dies in 2 or 3 years.  Pay once, cry once.

Optimums are great, and I am running an Odyssey slimline which seems to be just fine as long as I keep it on a trickle charger between rides.  The only reason I have the slimline is because of lack of space for a physically larger model.

I came across this thread because it is time for a new battery for my VS and I was wondered what most people are experiencing. I saw that the Centennial batteries weren't getting much love in this thread, so I thought I would add my two cents. My VS came with a 75 month Centennial battery....in 2008. Yes, my 75 month battery lasted for 144 months (keeping it on a trickle charger). So, my options were to replace it with a 30 month Champion battery from Pep Boys for $130, or pick up another 75 month Centennial for $85. You know which one I picked..... Praise to the Centennial battery! 

 

Ed, agreed. Is there a sulfuric acid or lead shortage? I think not on the lead, it isn't used for much anymore. No lead in solder, no lead wheel weights. Fishing weights? I don't fish so couldn't tell you. Don't have a clue about the acid either. And we all know  the plastic cases are certainly cheap to make!

If you get a battery, DON'T get a deep cycle battery, it's not designed to crank your car. They are designed for long duration low-current loads.

I bought an AGM(absorbed glass mat) for my motorcycle. Motorcycle batteries are seldom used and expensive, but I found a no-name for the same price as a standard lead acid 4 years ago. It's going strong. AGM still uses lead and acid, but they are non-spillable and don't need to get water added. For some reason, AGM batteries last longer than standard wet cells. 

Lenny and I were talking about batteries today. He bought an AGM for his Spyder back in 2001-2002. He's still running the original battery! I worked at Sears Auto when I was going to college, and I remember people having 8 and 10 year old batteries finally fail and coming in to get another five or six year DieHard.........sometimes they lasted LONGER than the pro-rate period.

And from some guys experience on here, Optima batteries don't seem to be lasting as long as they did even a few years ago. Something has changed there. Some seem to have better luck, but that number seems to be dwindling.

I don't like trickle chargers. They put a constant charge into your battery, and if the rate isn't tailored to your battery amp rating, they can either cook or undercharge.

I recommend a float charger/battery maintainer. These units charge while sensing the voltage, then float or stop the charge. They monitor the battery voltage constantly, and switch the charge back on when the voltage drops. Since I started using these units, I haven't had to replace either the Spyder battery or the bike. They are three and four years old, respectively.

The poor lawn tractor usually suffers a failure, unless I bring the battery indoors and set it on a piece of wood, NOT a concrete floor. And put a maintainer on it. If I forget, I get to buy a new one in spring, like this year.

 

@DannyP posted:

 

...And from some guys experience on here, Optima batteries don't seem to be lasting as long as they did even a few years ago. Something has changed there. Some seem to have better luck, but that number seems to be dwindling...

 

I read on another forum I sometimes frequent a guy commenting that Optima batteries were no longer what they once were, and early failure was now much more common. He said their drop in quality coincided with moving manufacturing to Mexico. The gentleman had some connection to the industry so all the regulars on the forum who knew him took his information as gospel. Odyssey batteries are apparently still the 'gold standard'. Al

Danny,

I agree with all your battery advice except the concrete floor info.  That was true when batteries were made with wooden cases, but modern batteries are impervious to moisture intrusion through the case.

Almost 20 years ago, I had to invest in a large solar battery array for a commercial project, so I did lots of research on optimum storage.  Ambient temperature has much more effect on battery life than flooring material.  Some myths die hard.  This is one of them. 

Thanks for the correction, Jim. I hate furthering untruths.

I think there are/were only two or three manufacturers in the USA. The big one is Johnson Controls battery group, sold a couple years ago to a Canadian company, Brookfield Business Partners.

Anyway, Johnson Controls made Sears and Interstate back in the day. There was one other brand, but I forget.

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