Before I turn the big wing nut again . . .

My clutch doesn't quite disengage even when pressed to the floor --- slight grind going into Reverse --- hard to get into first.

Car (Beck, 2165 CB performance Type 1) came to me like this and I promptly tighted the clutch cable, and it got better quickly, but less than 500 miles later --- same issue.

I don't ride the clutch. It's flat where I live, and I know how to shift.

And I sit in neutral at a light.

Just wondering if someone thinks something else is going on -- or if I need to tighten the "big wingnut" there at the end again -- maybe this time with some locktight.

sounds like the cable is about to FAIL! Most of us have gone to hydraulic clutch control due to the various issues with cables, some like you are having...hydraulic is not the be all end all perfect solution either, but when properly installed is a better solution than is the cable in a Spyder....

Jim D. is probably correct...Your cable is failing for some reason.

The other options, Throw out bearing failure(noisy), and pressure plate issues(vibration & noise), are most likely not your problem...

Good Luck....

Leon C.

The cable seems like an easy fix for now --- certainly lasted until recently --- looking through past owner's receipts see no indication that this happened before.

Plus, I can pull the clutch "back" a bit more when clutch fully pressed --- indicates to me I have some stretch going on.

order a new cable ASAP. Mine started doing exactly the same thing at 4000 miles and broke 200 miles later. Luckly i was 400 yards from home and could limp it back. I too will be going to hydralic over the winter. When you replace the cable grease it up around any bends, that seems to help immensly.

After replacing the cable, grab the lever on the transaxle where the adjusting wing nut is located. pull the lever towards the rear of the car. You should have between 1/8" and 1/4" inch of free play before the throw out bearing (attached to the lever inside the transaxle) hits the pressure plate.

Talk about freaky happenings....A buddy of mine called last night and asked me to locate a pre-67 VW pedal assembley....

When asked why, he said his '68 VW formed/welded plate steel unit had failed, in that the hook on the end of the clutch pedal had sheared it's weld and was peeling off....This hook engages the clutch cable...

Symptoms.....Identical to cable failure....

The pre '67 units are forged....

Might want to check this out...as my car has the steel plate units...

Good luck...

Leon C.

Anyone know what size/type cable goes in a Beck?

Check with Carey Hines at Special Editions....They stock most spares.

If your cable turns out to be OK, or problem persists after replacing cable, it can be a pressure plate problem. I had a stage II Kennedy fail on me. Symptoms were the same, reluctant to disengage. Limped to mechanic's only by taking all the freeplay out of the clutch & rolling every stop I could- throwout was singing to me the whole time.

David....Whatever happened?????

David....Whatever happened?????

Sorry, got busy. Price of oil makes for a busy man in West Texas.

The cable was the problem. Went away right after install.

Alas, however, the jamming into gear had taken its toll on the gear shift rod --- fatigue crack developed and the rod came lose in my hand.

Been driving around with a big phillips screw driver sticking out of the boot until I get around to replacing it. It's cold and rainy, so I am not in a huge hurry; plus it's an extra anti-theft device!

I am assuming it's a just a bug shifter, but haven't messed with it yet.

Mine broke also... only it broke below the small cross tube the shift rod ties to...Drove 8 mi.,2 traffic lights slow traffic in third gear.

Sorry, did not pick up on the other question....It is not a standard shifter..The quickest fix/upgrade is to buy a bug shifter(C.B.Perf)
then take the damaged and the new unit to a machine/fab shop and let them work their magic...

I am not sure if Carey Hines carries an upgraded unit....The problem with the OEM unit is that it is weakened when the cross tube is welded in.....Sereval quick shifts and it breaks...The C.B. Perf. shifter is a solid bar and does not flex....While you are replacing the shifter, replace the shift rod bushing out back...These last about two years....You will probably be surprised how much the shift pattern tightens up....

Good Luck....

I'm thinking about just sticking a rod inside the existing unit (perhaps off a screwdriver, if I can't find another one) and doing a spot weld.

May be easier than hunting down one to fit.

Welding in a bar will probably leave you with a weak spot at the weld as this will become a pivot point for applied stress....Just a thought....

After talking with Carey Hines (who was busy, but helpful), I found out that I was pretty much out of luck replacing the shifter --- they no longer use that set up, have no spares, and would have to order it from Brazil.

Do-able, I guess.

But, being in the oilfield, welders are plentiful, so I hunted on down, and we stuck a rod from top-to-bottom in the shifter; welded that puppy in. That link in the chain, at least, won't break.

So far, I think it's working --- somehow I have lost "push down lock out" for reverse --- possibly have the plate in backwards.

Cleaned it all real well; replaced the grease with some orange sythetic stuff of roughly the same consistency as the original --- --- but it shifts smooth as butter.

David....That plate may be upside down....I can't remember which way the tabs are oriented.....My Hayne's manual is out on loan....Also, make sure you have no washers between the plate and cover/pivot cup...

Looks like you have basicly got a "fix". Happy days...

I got the shifter fixed --- the plate was reversed.

I also noted the little "lever" the cable ties into on the back was cracking --- don't even know the name --- but I presume the issue was my rather serious clutch/pressure plate.

Anyway, I pulled that and related parts and either replaced them or welded extra supports on each piece.

Also got a metal rod and basically banged out an S-turn in the cable tunnel and made the cable turn off the pedal much more gentle.

Took a weekend, but it shifts like a modern car. Amazing difference.

I do want to replace the "big wing nut." It appears to be made out of pewter or other soft metal, presumably for lubrication. Where do thse guys come from? I remember someone needing one and ending up with ten.

That would be yours truly....However it was only 5 of them...

If you go to a regular steel wing nut, you will have to modify it....The factory nut has a rounded bottom which sits in a "socket/bowl" on the transition lever....This bowl may look like nothing more than a start with an over size drill...Your right about the softer metal acting as a bearing....Is it worth the frustration to re-engineer this part??? Not in my book, as long as the stock part is so cheap.....

Glad to see you are making progress.....

I used a regular nut to secure the cracking wing nut.

Where'd you get the wing nut? Is this a VW part?

I was told of "Peek performance". (Not sure of spelling) They were quick and accepted the small order without a hassle......If you can't locate one, I can ship/mail one of mine....$1.25+ship.charges.