Bendpak Scissor Lift

Bet you found that it doesn’t fit exactly, right?

I position mine so that the front block is as close as possible to the front corners of the cockpit floor, but that means it ends up a few inches back from the cockpit corners.

The rear blocks get positioned close to the rear corners, but if your lift is like mine it falls short in length so I put the blocks just forward of the corner and catch a spot between the seat depression in the floor and the side rails where the body bolts are.  Seems as good a couple of spots as any.

Play with the lift’s positioning front to back, inside/outside until you feel comfortable with block placement and it seems to lift the car with good balance and then either remember where the blocks were or mark the underside of the chassis to help position them again, later.

Don’t forget to also use jack stands under the chassis once you get it raised up, for safety sake.

Exactly! I also cannot figure out it the lift point of the lift (the round hole where you move it around from) should be in the front of the car or the back (feel really stupid asking this). Also which lift accessories that came with it are you using (IE: rubber standup blocks, flat blocks etc.)? 

First, there are no stupid questions on this forum.  Get that right out of your head.

That said, I don't believe that it matters which direction the lifts are facing as long as they're both the same.  Using the hydraulic hose connection end as an example, I have played with mine by lining up the lifts with the hoses exiting from the rear (under the engine) and later, from the front (under the car nose).  For me, exiting from the front is easier because that's where I can plug in the pump unit at the wall outlet.  It also makes sense because the car will move away from the hydraulic hose end of the lift when raising and it's easier to have it move slightly closer to the garage door.  I also push the lifts together under the car when not in use and simply "store" them under the car.  Saves lifting one end and wheeling them around the garage and looking for a (non-existent) place to vertically store them and it's no big deal to drive the car into the bay when the lifts are touched together under the center of the car.

Accessories:  All I got was a set of thick and thinner rubber blocks.  Mostly I use the rubber blocks and I usually stack a thinner block on top of a thicker block.  I've also made a set of 5" X 5" wood blocks (re-purposed unused fence post) that just fit under the car when the lifts are collapsed if I want to gain a few more inches of height.  You'll need some pretty tall jack stands to place under the car when you get it really up there.  Mine are for trucks, rated at 6 tons and extend 32".  If you get some, make sure they're stable - some of those tall stands from camper/RV stores (and some from Harbor Freight) seem a bit flimsy and I wouldn't trust them, nor do I trust the lifts, alone, to keep my car up there and off of ME!

If your looking for a lift. Check kwik lift.com. I had one, easy to use, safe, leave down and just drive on, or take apart if you need room.

Thanks for the help got it all setup works Great.

@Gordon Nichols, You can get a few inches more if you take a 2x6 and cut pieces to fit in the mount area.  Depending on your car height you can sometimes put 2 pieces and then the rubber. Just saying.

That's essentially what I did with the 5" X  5" blocks.  The car sits pretty low, so that's about all I could fit between the lifts when all the way down and the car bottom.  I also routed out an area on the blocks for whatever was pertruding down from the bottom of the pan so they fit up snug AND fill the little tray in the lifts without moving around.

Great, I cut mine as well and they are form fitted in the slot.  I might do a bit more to try to get a few more inches.  It's either that or go on a diet  

I fear Santa might get stuck under the car this winter.