Brake lights don't work

I’d get my volt meter out and start testing the connections front to back so you can identify where the power source is lost. 

May be worth checking your fuse box.   I replaced mine years ago with the led powered ones from Harbor Freight,  Allowed me  to check quickly for failures,,,, my eyes are not what they used to be.   

fuse box is typically  under the dash, left of your steering column- ... right behind the frunk release. 

I checked the fuse box and I'm getting power at the master cylinder and I tried a new switch (the remaining two were new also) and the bulbs are fine. Is there a relay somewhere? The front parking lights don't work but I don't remember if they ever worked.

Front parking lights are likely wired for turn signals only.  The small bulbs in your headlights are your front running lights, but many people don't wire them up so I don't know if yours were wired that way or not since it was originally a kit build and I don't recall from when it was here.

On your brake lights, if you have power into your brake switch, then just pull both wires off of it and hold them together.  This should illuminate your brake lights bypassing the switch.  No relay, but they are fused.

You can test the $5 pressure brake switches with an OHM meter (much like shorting out the wires).  with no foot on brake pedal they are open (0 ohms) and when pedal is depressed ohms should jump up closing the circuit.  Man of the new switches fail early.

you can jumper the brake light switch to find where you are losing power.  Start at the switch and work your way back to the bulbs.  I once had a connector wiggle loose causing my brake lights to stop working.  Good luck

Bought a TWO pole switch, installed, and it worked...I'm thinking maybe the other switches had tabs that were too close together and shorting the whole thing out...

Glad you got that sorta Meade. 

I keep a spare switch in my tool bag, they fail often. They're simply not made very well.

They do last longer if you replace your fluid every two years though.

I found the switches the Autozone carries are made in Spain. They are better quality than I have been able to find anywhere else

I bought one of these.  I haven't installed it yet.  I am hoping the wires can squeeze through with the brake line.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2140061 

@Michael McKelvey posted:

I bought one of these.  I haven't installed it yet.  I am hoping the wires can squeeze through with the brake line.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2140061 

I think @Gordon Nichols installed one of those a few years back.

I did, but mine was created from scratch.  Mike's source includes everything you need as a kit.

My stop light switch is mounted to the floor immediately behind the brake pedal and is driven mechanically.  Mine is completely covered by the floor carpet.  The switch is for an early Chevrolet and is an Echlin P/N: SL128 or NAPA TWD 8486BX.   That's what a lot of hot rod guys are now using because those folks went through all these hydraulic switch failures years ago and migrated to a reliable mechanical switch.

...truth be told, the brake lites didn't work because 'someone' didn't notice that the tabs on the switch were too close together...making the brake lights short out...

meade

Hmmm. It takes a real man to admit a mistake. Good on you!