Holy Cow!   That brake light switch is remarkably over-designed.

I just used a floor-mounted 1937 - 1955 Chevy stop light switch.  Less than $20 bucks, mechanical (rather than those hydraulic things that fail every 18 months) and took about half an hour to install, including running a new wire for it.

I do like that pedal assembly up above that fits the existing VW pedal mounts.  And having the pedals a bit farther apart would be nice, too, plus the clutch cable pivot is really cool.

"BTW you can make it yourself but this guy did all the work already for you and it should work well without all the running around to make it."

That looks slick...... It'll take you over an hour to fab one up and into place if you DIY it from scratch, plus you still have to buy the switch!

Even at $20/hour of your time, $35-ish for that kit is a good deal.  

Stan Galat posted:
IaM-Ray posted:

Did you also look at this brake pedal bracket?  Nicely done.. brake pedal light switch

THe switch used is pretty standard and is compressed in FOR OFF and fully adjustable not to mention easily available. 

I also like the wide pedals and the throttle pedals they have.

Super nice. Thanks for the link.

Your welcome, you might want to know that IM on my car has wired in a small microswitch attached to the floor with a roller end that presses up against the brake pedal cluster and when you press the brake the brake light goes on of course when it rocks away from it.  

Since we have the panel you cannot see it but it is there.  I can only think that the micro switch is/was more reliable than the stock pressure switch.

I don't know. I've only had one fail, and I happened to be down at Cory's house at the time. Swapped it out with a spare I had in the tool bag, didn't even bleed it after the swap. Maybe it depends on where and who made them?

That's 43,000 miles with only one failure. I do change my brake fluid every two years like you're supposed to. Plain old DOT 3/4 works just fine. I usually buy Valvoline synthetic.

Sorry Brock.......I didn't mention that the ones I installed were banjo's with a 90 degree steel tube stubbed out to connect the flex hose.  Just like Jimmy V's and Mike's.  For those who aren't too swift about brake line connections  you do not connect solid steel lines directly to a floating caliper or any moveable component. The flexing will eventually crack the tubing. A flexible piece of hose has to be inserted between the two to allow the flexing to occur with no damage.

Brock...You're doing really nice work and it's refreshing to see your approach with differing regularity.......please proceed !!!!!.............Bruce

I had KYB gas shocks on my Speedster and hated the harshness of the ride. The car actually bounced when riding over small bumps, they didn't take the shock out of the road imperfections. The Koni shocks made a world of difference. They can be adjusted to suit the cars weight and your driving style. Stock Monroe shocks for a beetle are better than KYB gas shocks in my opinion.

Jimmy V. posted:

I had KYB gas shocks on my Speedster and hated the harshness of the ride. The car actually bounced when riding over small bumps, they didn't take the shock out of the road imperfections. The Koni shocks made a world of difference. They can be adjusted to suit the cars weight and your driving style. Stock Monroe shocks for a beetle are better than KYB gas shocks in my opinion.

So even with Subie the KYB rode harsh?  My thoughts were the added weight change the behavior? Are the koni coil over?

thanks

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