Ray thats not a pic of the frunk its the engine lid.......Thanks  though!

Bruce , yes exactly.

I will have to re-drill mine because if used like they are the back of the hinge by the bonnet digs into the firewall very quickly. Have to move them forward an inch.

It works! Man what a pain this was and its not done yet. Didnt realize untill after i cut nice straight slots in the firewall for the hinges that they are NOT straight! So that means lots of filling with glass and cabosil to get them right.......

20190714_093305

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Think the build manual calls it black ribbed hall runner.  I've seen some nice installs here with an aluminum trim around it. There is also a rectangular plastic beige box that gets installed and fiberglassed in under the dash around each hinge too.

cmc hinge block 3cmc hinge block 2 

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The CMC hinge boxes were shipped separate (they were crudely made from some sort of hardened foam into a mold), but they were buried out of sight up under the dash and could be glued in with Bondo after the hinges were installed.  The purpose was to minimize air leaks from the Frunk into the cockpit.  

But by now you're probably asking; "Well, what if I want to remove the hood later on?"

The answer is, you have to remove the hood from the brackets because you can't get to the hinge pivot bolts.

Gordon, yeah the boxes would make it hard to do.

Wolfgang, water in the frunk? Not supposed to be water in there is it? 😂😂

Btw what is the rubber seal around the lid from?

ALB, may do that also thought of engine turning them.

Btw what is the rubber seal around the lid from?

Lowes/Home Depot - - Closed cell one side sticky tape foam for doors/windows.  DrClock probably has a source for a better rubber gasket - I've seen D shaped rubber which looks better.

At speed, water and air get forced into the frunk with no place to go.

Brock B posted:

 

ALB, may do that also thought of engine turning them.

Do the holes first. If you still have energy for it left, THEN engine turn them. Being aluminum there won't be very much weight loss, but they'll look waayyy cool!

Bruce's drilled and engine turned rear mount; it could use a few more holes, but it's a start

Engine support bar- Bruce'sEngine support Bruce's 5

 

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I use a combination of Home Depot 3/8" "D" shaped door weather strip from "Frost King" (Hardware aisle but beware - it comes in white only) as well as slightly larger 7/16" hollow, lipped "D" shaped stuff that was recommended by @MusbJim

I can't remember where I bought it from.  Jim will know.  Might have been McMaster-Carr.  I needed two different heights because of differences in spacing between the hood and body at various points around the opening.  If you get "D" rubber too thick  you need an elephant to sit on the hood to close it.  Too thin and it leaks.

The next time I seal mine I think I'll use a seal like this:

https://www.mcmaster.com/1142a54

WOW! This made the hood hinges look like a cake walk! These things are just a bunch of guess work and measurements  because the doors are already together. Still have to finnish this one and then doo the pass side........

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Adjusting doors: Tape both the doors and door jamb edge with blue tape to avoid scratching the surfaces . Open door and while supporting it from the bottom sturdy cardboard box or a floor jack with a towel on the round plate. Loosen the hinge screws on the top and bottom hinges. Go back and lightly snug one top center and the bottom center screw you should be able to grab the door and move it slightly with enough " drag " on the hinges to keep it in place, if to lose snug the two screws a bit more. Check your margins and tighten the remaining hinge screws Lastly check that the door still hatches " two clicks " on the door latch.

Bruce, a whole LOT of cussin and VERY hot work happened making these go on...something that could have been avoided by having a couple simple patterns be included with the body......

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