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JR Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi posted:

I am also a member of spyderclub. Posting information here is much easier.

You can say that again, Jim! You have to downsize the photos to a tiny 150Kb or less, ruining any chance of seeing actual detail.

Great job, Jim. Lenny and I are working on the same thing for our cars. I'm going to weld mine up in one piece, then heat-treat to Rockwell 40 or so. 5/8" bar and 3/8" flat steel ends. I'll post pictures.

This is the like the clamshell holder Ed made from aluminum. Mine is steel and made by Carey Hines and Co. I really love it, it works REALLY well. Driver's side on my car.IMG_20170516_150113062


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I made a bar also. I used plasma cut end levers, urethane sway bar bushings(5/8"), 10mm rod ends for end links, a coupler nut on the bottom shock bolt, and a recycled 911 early through-body bar. 

I had to fabricate brackets and weld them to the beam. I had the bar Tig-welded so minimal heat was put into the bar. It was pretty straightforward to build.

Road test tomorrow, it's going to be nice.20180426_15214220180428_11200220180428_11194920180428_112032 


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Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi posted:

As far as the rear goes; nothing right now. My car is an early Vintage with coil over rear shocks. Some say that because of that arrangement it's about as good as it gets. I'll drive for a while and see what happens.

Thanks for your reply.


@Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi

"Coil over rear shocks" I've never seen that on a Vintage.  Are you sure it's a Vintage? 

I really like what you've done, I've thought about doing something like that for a while. The only suggestion I would have is to really watch the lower shock bolts. You've put a big reversing load out there at least an inch or two and you may see them fatigue. If they come loose or if they ever look bent that would be a sure sign that they are fatigued.   

I hear you, Chris. Is there a way to replace the stock shock bolt with anything longer?

The load factor was the one of the reasons why 5/8" bar(actually 15.25mm from early 911) instead of a 3/4". I had re-bent a factory link-pin Bug bar so it cleared the frame tubes by the bottom torsion bar. But the new car above has a 2" narrowed beam, so it wouldn't fit. The 2" narrowed EMPI 3/4" bar hit the frame no matter how I bent it.

The early 911 and 912 rear bar had sway bar links with plastic snap-on ball links. How much load could be transferred by a plastic link on a 15mm bar? I don't know but made a guess that it would work. I'll find out soon enough...... 

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