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Well, here goes:

About two years ago I had a motor built because, as we all know, 1600 is fun but more is ALWAYS better.  Anyway I went with a 2180cc motor using 68cc Panchito 44 heads and 92mm thick wall cylinders.  I kept the compression 8.2 : 1 (more on that in a minute).  I’m running a CB Performance 2242 camshaft, external oil cooler, thin-line oil sump, full flow 31mm oil pump and an electric fuel pump.  I started with the Magnaspark ignition, a pair of Webber 44s, and an EMPI sidewinder style exhaust (this all changed).

At this point the estimated HP was in the 135-150 range.  I never ran it on a dyno but it felt like I had easily twice the HP of my original 1600.

Now: back to the 8.2:1 compression.  The reason for that was my overwhelming desire (sickness?) to run a turbo charger.  As it happens CB Performance has a “hideaway” turbo kit that comes with most all of the goodies including a T03/T04 Hybrid Turbo with a 0.63 A/R Exhaust Housing P-Trim Turbine Wheel, H-Trim Compressor Housing (0.70 A/R), and a 59mm Compressor Wheel.

SOLD!

The exhaust tip was just that; a tip.  So I sourced a tri-mil muffler I found here (thank you @Jimmy V. !).  The tri-mil had already been modified and was apart from the tubes: exactly what I was looking for!  Some cutting, welding, fitting, ceramic coating, and adjusting got me on the road and all sorts of happy.

Turbo went on over the winter of 2020-21 and the performance was beyond anything I could have imagined.  After a few months of driving and tuning I wore tired of monkeying around with the carburetors.  So…EFI was the “logical” step.

Now I have a Megasquirt system that effectively replaced the Webbers.  Also added was a crank fire ignition.  Tuning is done via laptop using Tuner Studio.  I drive with my wife in the seat next to me running the laptop.  In under an hour we tuned this monster; a job that would have taken hours or days with jetting and timing changes.  With the software we can adjust the AFR and timing literally on the fly.

More to follow.

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@TheMayoMachine-  To again quote my friend Stan- stupid cool!  I'm sure you're well above the 200 hp mark.  Must be a very (and I do mean VERY!) fun ride!  What do you have the boost set at?  On the Samba Dune buggy/Kit car forum a couple of guys have been successfully running turbos on their buggy engines for a while- I think (at least) part of that success is not  going nuts with the boost.  Another part (I think) is the engines not having to re-ingest their own radiated heat.  Are you monitoring engine compartment temps?

that's so RAD!...you have to know to be cautious...that car is now a SPEED BUMP magnet.....which will be an expensive OUCH! ....that set up isn't for everyone....me being one i absolutely admit!....my VW days are over.....i'll stick to the turn key SUBARU power....just because my tinkering days on cars and bikes are over..i still have some knowledge, but just choose not to...just a personal choice  happy BOOST motoring!

Apologies for the delayed responses.

@ALB : Currently I am set to 10 pounds of boost.  I can can spin it up quite a bit more but that may require an intercooler...which I am not inclined to do (yet).  I am a firm believer the more stuff you add to a project like this the more things have the potential to go "wrong".  Not to mention that every time I add a bit or piece there is invariably something that is incompatible with the new stuff.  I'm pretty sure we have all experienced that to some degree.  Yes...I am monitoring the heat has best I can.  I am running a bus type seals on the tins and I have been quite happy with them.  The turbo itself sits outside the engine bay under the vehicle but it does heat up the intake air a bit.  I am entertaining a methane injection on the vertical tube that runs from the turbo to the EFI.  After all I already have a threaded fitting there just waiting to be put to use but I'm still drawn on that.  As far as the overall heat is concerned I seem to be OK for now.  I live in the central valley of California and I recently took a drive in the late afternoon heat of about 103.  With the external oil cooler and good engine seal I never saw the head temperature go over 185.  In fact, I can monitor the head temperature with the software I'm using and I have not even been near a temperature that caused me concern...even when driving in the same heat between home and SLO in early June.  I do tend to get a bit nervous at stops but so far the temperature has been well within my comfort level.  I can't speak to the engine bay temperature but I am considering adding a sensor to see what the ambient temperature is under the deck lid when I am out and about.

@jncspyder : Speed bump magnet you say?  Yes...yes it is.  Although it's not really much worse than when I was running an A-1 sidewinder...the low point of the exhaust is just on the driver side now.  As soon as I got it all up and running and still had a good shine on the pretty parts I drove less than 4 miles to a gas station.  I fueled up and crept through the lot at maybe 2-3 mph and dragged that pipe across a speed bump.  I can't express the emotion.  I guess I got the damage done early though and, in my opinion, a true driver shouldn't be perfect (just close!).  If you look closely at pictures four and five (the underbelly) you can see a piece of steel tubing that was welded on to the header prior to being ceramic coated.  All that does is cover the gouge I created on that speed bump I kissed on the maiden voyage.  I think of that tubing as a scar, a battle wound if you will.  I grappled with wrapping the exhaust but opted to cut, weld, and recoat the header for a variety of reasons...some aesthetic, others practical, as I believe wrapping exhaust can create problems with corrosion, etc.  That's not to say I won't go to a wrap later as a means to keep the temperature down.  I'm just not there yet.

On Monday of this week I took a little jaunt in the oppressive heat; it's a dry heat but it still sucks buttermilk.  I averaged 24mpg with ridiculous power all through the pedal.  I still can't wrap my head around how much this beast creates and still manages to keep the mileage better than respectable.  One last note: the EFI system has a setting for cold starts as well as driving.  All I do now is stand outside the car, reach in, turn the key and VROOM!  Let her warm up a bit then slide on in and hit the road!

@TheMayoMachine your BOOSTED ROOSTER is RAD!...no denying that fact.....not sure if you have seen how low my oil pan is in my SUBIE car to the ground...but your pipes are a couple inches lower...my oil pan has 1/4 " STEEL PLATE welded around the bottom which is plenty beefy.... and depending on the driveway...it is still  a SHOCK when it rubs or HITS ....i try to always do the "at an angle" slink when entering and exiting nearly ALL driveways & speedbumps....i have accidentally hit some HARD....which is a SPHINCTER CONTRATING moment....if you have one of those moments at any real speed with those low hanging pipes....the OUCH FACTOR along with the $$$$ factor could be serious.....all you can do is be wary as best you can...safe & happy motoring

@jncspyder posted:

@TheMayoMachine your BOOSTED ROOSTER is RAD!...no denying that fact.....not sure if you have seen how low my oil pan is in my SUBIE car to the ground...but your pipes are a couple inches lower...my oil pan has 1/4 " STEEL PLATE welded around the bottom which is plenty beefy.... and depending on the driveway...it is still  a SHOCK when it rubs or HITS ....i try to always do the "at an angle" slink when entering and exiting nearly ALL driveways & speedbumps....i have accidentally hit some HARD....which is a SPHINCTER CONTRATING moment....if you have one of those moments at any real speed with those low hanging pipes....the OUCH FACTOR along with the $$$$ factor could be serious.....all you can do is be wary as best you can...safe & happy motoring

Why not just get a Small Car pan?

Saves 2 inches, makes the pipes the low point. Still holds 5 quarts. Bolts on, piece of cake.

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