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My engine is a Type IV but the Type1s offer the same Cussin' time when putting the oil screen back into the engine  after an oil change.   I got this idea from Alan Merklin who has helped us all a lot over the years and recommends using Hylomar (a permatex product) to "stick all the screen parts together and insert the stack as one piece.  This procedure used to be an unpleasant challenge for me as the juggling act was almost impossible for me to manage because you are balancing the oil plate, a 3- 4" round gasket then the screen, followed by another similar gasket.   Then while balancing the stack together, insert the whole business up into the round hole under the engine while each piece of the stack  succeeds in falling apart.  IF you were successful in getting that stack up into the engine, you have to hold it there while trying to start the single bolt  into the underside of the bottom plate into the threaded post somewhere "up there"  That's for a Type 4 and I remember the same stack for my Type 1 but instead of a plate at the bottom with one hole in the middle for the bolt, there is a part at the bottom where 8 or so small nuts going around the edge to replace while holding the stack of stuff into the engine. 

Alan recommended sticking all the pieces of the stack together as one piece using the Hylomar according to directions.  Slather on a thin layer to both sides, let it set for 10 minutes and then it's tacky enough to attach the pieces together.  Then put the whole stack up into the engine.  It stays together as it's going into the engine and as you attach it with that bottom bolt. 

This part of an oil change was so difficult for me that I only cleaned the screen every-other oil change and hated it every time as I built 60,000 miles---about half with the Type IV engine.  That's two changes a year for 14 years half of which included the screen cleaning.  I wish I'd have known this trick a long time ago and hope it helps someone like it helped me!  Thanks, Alan.

Last, I see some members use Hylomar on their valve cover gaskets to prevent leaks but I have good luck with a schmeer of grease.

2007 Vintage Speedster/ Jake Raby TYPE IV engine

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@Jack Crosby I'm gonna agree with Jim.  The last time I pulled my engine (when I had the transaxle rebuilt six or more years ago) I also pulled the sump plate and screen, which I never touch, just to check it and re-seal everything and after something like 12 years the screen was clear. It looked like the external filter (NAPA Gold 1515) was really doing all of the work (the screen would only catch something the size of a pebble, anyway) and I haven't bothered with messing with the sump and screen since.

To your point about Alan's method, though - That's an old-timer mechanic's trick that works like a charm, as you've found out!  

Plus, you get to schmeer RTV all over yourself while prepping the gaskets!

I've got another related question: does the oil pickup pipe need the little umbrella that sits over the oil screen?

My oil pickup pipe is extended to the bottom of my CBP sump, but it evidently leaks giving me less than desirable oil pressure when I'm braking hard. I just bought CBP's solid extended pickup tube but would rather not split the case to replace it.

Any thoughts on bad outcomes from trimming the pickup umbrella on the new pickup so I can squeeze it through the sump hole?

Thanks!

Last edited by Michael Pickett

Mike, the oil pickup is supposed to be a snug fit in the case. If it's not you're supposed to peen the case where the tube fits. You can only do that with a split case.

I still can't figure out how you're going to keep any metal filings out of the case by cutting the umbrella.

Maybe use some JB Weld on the pickup tube?

I used a clamp AND JB Weld on my pickup tube extension and had no leaks.

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