Ron P posted:

Any guesses on what it would cost to install it? I don't know the spec on my's likely a basic freeway flyer. Would this engine be compatible with it or would it require a different trans?


I would want to know specifically what camshaft, valve sizes and exhaust are in it and what the compression has been set at, although with 160 hp (estimated, so probably all in by 6,000 rpm or a touch higher) I doubt the engine is so high strung that it's not a "driver", vs a high winding, 7500 rpm  "boulevard bruiser" that requires more maintenance than normal.

Going into a different car for the first time, I think 4-6 hours would be a fair estimate with a good VW aircooled mechanic that has dual carburetor experience . A full day (8 hours) would be pushing the envelope, and any longer is outright robbery. Even a 200 hp engine is compatible with a stock transaxle, as long as there is NEVER any clutch dropping and you ALWAYS roll on the power so the stock spider and side gears are NEVER overstressed. The transaxle won't last as long as it would if driven with a 50 hp engine in a commuter car (afterall, the engine is making 2 1/2 - 3 times more power than a stocker), but there's no reason you couldn't get a few driving seasons out of it if the trans is in good shape to begin with. If you like the gearing the car has now, more power will just make it that much more fun!

The only thing more fun would be all the strengthening tricks (so you can beat on it occasionally with close ratio gears!) in a Berg 5 

Hope this helps. Al

Not much to pulling and reinstalling a VW engine.  Only glitch over in a bug would be the dual carbs and the exhaust can get in the way.  I'd think you'd want to add some bracing to the engine/trans support forks (Kafer bar/truss) to account for the extra power and swap out the old trans rubber mounts (to Rhino mounts) to new "while you're at it."  You and a buddy with 2 6 packs could do in a day. 

Image result for kafer vw transmission mounts

As Wolfgang mentions, a Kafer brace for that engine would be a prudent move (do a search on here for Kafer Brace - there should be a bunch of hits) and I would also highly recommend a transaxle mid-mount (the Berg version is nice) to keep the power harnessed and to keep the transaxle from destroying the front (nose cone) frame mount (which you should swap out for a Rhino mount no matter what) on harder acceleration.

Beyond that, heed ALB’s advice and keep you foot out of it in first and second for a year or two, then decide whether you want a new/rebuilt beefier transaxle with different gearing to match how you drive.  

Chuck Beck has quite the reputation so I would expect that engine to have some serious ‘Nads.

That’s just how Chuck rolls.

Figure a weekend if you have everything you'll need  as there will be minor changes i.e.  linkage,  hose placement switch clutch and exhaust. That will manage to quickly consume time. As said, a Kafer brace, good trans mounts would be a plus being done when the old engine is removed. Do replace the clutch with a 1700 lb Kennedy set (replace the throw out bearing too) as your stock unit's pressure plate will not hold with the additional HP.  While your there,  inspect the clutch arm condition and best to check the shaft seal too. Your trans will suffice as long as you don't dump the clutch to impress the neighbors daughter. You can do this R & I  yourself with good support on here. For a first timer figure a few hours to to remove engine i.e. drain the oil, remove body seals, the exhaust, heater box and accelerator cables, hoses and wiring. BTW removing the alternator pulley will give you a bit more wiggle room. and all day to get things back in running and adjustments.  I once did a Beetle clutch replacement on the side of the highway with a concrete block and long 4 x 4 as my engine jack but that's another chapter for another time ~

2180cc should be a 78.8 crank and 94mm barrels, very similar to my 2165. The 15cc difference is the crank stroke, mine is a 78mm.

Go for it, but I would want to know the specs like Al Blanchette. R & R engine in a Speedster shouldn't take more than a day, especially if you've got two guys and a good set of tools. Much easier than a Spyder IMHO. And I've done both, many times.

As has been suggested, a trans mid mount and kafer brace would also be a good idea. Gene Berg Ent. invented the mid mount             ;products_id=1064  and it's design is the best. The one that doesn't require welding, with the red plastic pads that "rest" against the frame horns can still move slightly, which kind of defeats the purpose. Lots of kafer bars out there and unless the engine is making huge hp and you're drag racing (and lifting the front wheels off the ground) they all do the same thing- take your pick.

My labor estimate was based on your question, "what would it cost to install it?", but as the guys have also suggested, if you are mechanically inclined at all this is something you and a friend can do with hand tools, a floor jack and jack stands. The first time can be a little intimidating, but once you've done it you can see it's not that big a deal (especially if the friend has a little automotive experience). Working on your own car can be a very therapeutic experience- I still get a little kick out of it when the input shaft finally aligns with the splines in the clutch disc and the engine slides into place- yeah, baby!

When you say you have "just a basic freeway flier trans"- this is a bit of a pet peeve of mine, as the term was invented by a now defunct company in the early '80's, has no definitive meaning and means different things to different people. It could be the trans has either a 3.88 (with or without a longer than stock 4th) or 3.44 ring & pinion (again, with or without the longer 4th, which would be just plain stupid if it was with!) , or even one of the shorter ring & pinions with just a longer 4th (I've seen it done). It doesn't really tell us anything, which is why I ask people what gears are in it- that will tell you more about the trans than some silly vague label.

Sorry for the rant- every once in a while I have to get on my soapbox and educate the masses (not that the rabble are listening particularly closely, or even care. Really, sometimes it's like I'm talking to an f'in' wall!). I'll get down now...

And Danny's right- while the classic 2180 is an 82 mm stroke with 92 mm pistons and cylinders, a 78.4x94 makes a 2176 and 78.8x94=2187, both of which are sometimes called a 2180.

@Cole Thompson- Glad to hear you're liking it!

Yeah, that's enough for now. Time to go tear apart the rear suspension on the car AGAIN! Al


Lane Anderson posted:

"Sorry for the rant- every once in a while I have to get on my soapbox and educate the masses (not that the rabble are listening particularly closely, or even care. Really, sometimes it's like I'm talking to an f'in' wall!). I'll get down now..."

Did you say something?  I'm sorry, I wasn't listening. 

And that's what I'm talking about!

Ok, Lane, that was the laugh of the morning. Thank you!!!

I was interested and sent the seller messages via Facebook. No response.
He has a VW repair shop near Atlanta and sells lot of used VW parts via SAMBa - looks moer like a bone yard than a repair shop.. On his facebook page it shows a ratty bug with a big engine - maybe the engine for sale. Might have been driven hard... just guessing via his FB post. I never heard back. Probably a good thing.

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