Skip to main content

hello to all, need your help here, my 2004 beck clutch cable snapped up by the pedal, i called beck and they are overnighting me one, but the big Q. is while i was under the dash where does it hook up to the pedal assembly? i am trying to get the whole assembly out, two 17mm bolts according to randy beck. i will take any help or advise about installing a new one, thanks!
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

hello to all, need your help here, my 2004 beck clutch cable snapped up by the pedal, i called beck and they are overnighting me one, but the big Q. is while i was under the dash where does it hook up to the pedal assembly? i am trying to get the whole assembly out, two 17mm bolts according to randy beck. i will take any help or advise about installing a new one, thanks!
Charles: If I'm not mistaken, the installation on the central tunnel is very much like a VW beetle. The pedal assembly is bolted to the central tunnel. The hook and cable are inside the tunnel. You'll probably have to disconnect the throttle cable to get the pedal assembly out. Be sure to put some grease on the hook when you reassemble. It also helps to have an assistant hold the cable in the rear of the car to keep a little tension on the cable for reassembly. It can be tricky to replace the pedal assembly and keep the cable attached to the hook.
Hope this helps. Cheers!

You may want to take this opportunity to convert your clutch from a cable to a hydraulic. No snapped cables evermore! I switched when a new high pressure clutch was installed. Figured the extra pressure necessary to pull the clutch would stress the cable and I didn't want to be stranded.
Charles: I forgot to mention, grease the cable where it is located in the tube in the chasis tunnel.
While a hydraulic clutch does eliminate broken cables, at some point (considerably less frequent that cable breakages) the master and slave cylinders will require attention.
Old VW owners generally have learned how to drive without a clutch.
hey ms. V., mine snapped when i went to start it about 5 miles from home... i put it in 2nd,turned the key ,it cranked over while chugging forward, then it started ,thankfully i didnt have to stop at any of the stop signs on the way home. i called greg and dean at beck, they were very helpful, they are sending me a cable fedex. cant ask for any better service than that. thanks to all for the info... gonna tackle the job sunday morning.....
Thanks Mike. My clutch system is kind of odd. It acts like a pull clutch (similar to a 70's 911) then there are some levers and a rod that activate the clutch arm at the top of the trans. If my cable is a cut/modified one then it would be modified at the pedal cluster end, since at the trans the clutch cable end is a standard VW looking one.
The cable system was always a kluge in my opinion. Trying to get teh cable to pull in the opposite direction - I tried levers and pulleys and could not get good actuation and feel. I went hydraulic and love it. It is one of the best mods I made and cost less than $200.


You might start practicing shifting without the clutch in case the cable quits again. Start the car in 1st gear and shift up through the gears. Play with the throttle until the gear speeds match and it will slip into the next gear. If you have to stop, put it in neutral and stop, then kill the engine and put it in 1st again and repeat as necessary until you get home or to a repair shop.
George - Your post brought back memories of my '72 BMW 2002...It had a clutch slave cylinder that went south on me. Being up here in the mountains of north Georgia in the late 70's, it took about 4 days to get a new slave cylinder shipped up here (The local NAPA store refused to order it and I ended up getting it out of Charleston).

I discovered that if I pumped the clutch pedal like hell I could actually get the clutch to disengage long enough to start the car and get into first gear, then could shift through the remainder of gears without the clutch (Thanks God for the shift marks on the tach!)

Just like you described, I'd stop at a light and kill the engine (Or if I was lucky, remember to shift into neutral just before stopping), then pump like hell when I saw the opposite light turning yellow, timing everything just right to drive off on green. I drove around like that for four days.....Still wonder what the people behind me at lights thought I was doing.

Since that time, I've practiced shifting without a clutch with every manual tranny car I've owned...The worst was my '93 RX-7...That thing was almost too torquey to shift without a clutch.
As a young man, my friends and I experimented with clutchless shifting of our standard cars just for fun. I had a Norton Commando that I could upshift and downshift.

One day while all the way across Houston from home, my 427 Chevelle clutch pivot point ball sheared off at the block. I was buying tires and the guy there said I should try starting the car in neutral and pushing it then jump in and try to slip the muncie M22 into first. This did not work at all. The 427 put out about 600hp and idled at 2000rpm, so I could not push fast enough. I then killed the engine and put it in 1st gear and turned the key. The car lurched forward and when it started, the wheels would spin from all the torque. I could shift up into 2nd but did not relish the idea of driving that way all the way home, so I found an auto repair shop nearby and they were able to get the old broken pivot out and get a new one from a chevy dealer to put back in.
hey all, i put the new cable in,while ajusting the new cable at the wing nut,i cannot get the car into gear i grind going into any gear regardless of where i ajust it. with the wing nut all the way in or out. with the motor shut off i can get into any gear, is there another ajustment i am missing? throwout bearing? need all the help i can get here:) very frustrating... thanks chas.
The problem I was having with my clutch cable set up was that I could not get it to tighten up...there was so much slop in the system that most of the pedal travel took the slop and the very last half inch of pedal actuated the clutch. Take a look at the way the cable travels fromt eh pedals - though the tunneel, under the passenger seat and around the right side of the engine. In my car it was not in a straight line but in a curve through a tube - no way it can work reliably over time. Hydraulic is the answer in my opinion.

Charles: How much free play do you have in the pedal? This is the distance from the clutch pedal in the rest position until the throw out bearing contacts the clutch. On a Spyder, this distance shouldn't be more than 1-1/2 inches (VW says 3/4 inch, this is too tight). Push the pedal with your hand until you feel a significant increase in resistance. Note the position. It sounds like you have the adjustment too loose.
thanks to all for the input. the pedal seems to have about half the "spring "that it had before. very soft and mushie, it doesnt return near as fast. the return spring on the trans feels just like it did before. when placing the wing nut in about the same spot as the prev. cable nothing but grinding.. thanks again. chas
after trying to get the engine out without the proper equipment, i went to my local air cooled expert,once he got it engine out we saw the throwout bearing,the arm and the cradle it fits into were shot, with only 750miles on them, i called greg at beck and he said send him the bill! this is very nice touch considering that these types of vehicles are really sold "as-is and as-shown" it isnt a big dollar amount,but very refreshing to know that they stand by there product. will be back on the road soon! thanks to all for your input. and my thanks greg at beck
Post Content
Link copied to your clipboard.