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I bought my CMC classic Speedster body 11/1/1988. The invoice number (same as gold id plate) is S-2244 so would assume yours is earlier (wow! almost 1000 earlier).  That # is also on my Certificate of Origin.  I would think the State of Arizona could provide info on when that VIN was assigned.

I tried to research one from Michigan for a CMC Speedster that was now in the UK.  First, Michigan DMV said I needed to send $10 for cost of research. I sent the $10 and they said their records didn't go back that far! DMV is a bureaucratic zoo - regardless of state.  In Fl, it isn't even called DMV - it's the Office of Taxation (so at least you know what to expect).

Vehicle History Report Fees in Arizona. A vehicle history report in Arizona costs $3.

FYI, Your ID plate has been moved on the car and it appears the original pop rivets were drilled out.  Depending on the inspector/highway patrol they may cite you for VIN tampering.  There are certainly many legal reasons to move the ID plate.  It would probably be advisable to reattach the CMC ID plate with new pop rivets.

When I registered in Massachusetts (a state almost as crazy as California - It must be a coastal thing), the inspectors, both State Police and DMV inspector, didn't give a rat's pitutie about the CMC body plate, so it doesn't matter to them that mine's attached with brass screws (to match the gold of the plate).  

What they DID care about was the bill of sale for the body (kit) to prove it hadn't been stolen, and then the proper placement of the Mass VIN plate on the driver's door frame.  (The issuing inspector allowed me to put the VIN plate on myself to make it look nice but he showed me where it should go.)  

The Mass. issued VIN plate has "never-let-go" adhesive on the back so if you try to remove it the plate will be destroyed.  I can't remember if it has guides for drilling and affixing with rivets but once it's stuck on there, that's it (so get it right the first time!)

The AZ plate looks very new (as does the paint) - could it have been issued/applied in 2019 (taking the first 2 numbers as the year - 1946 not so much).  I see it is new to you. The CMC plate just links the COO to the body and isn't used for anything by DMV.  Most builder don't mount the gold plate - I would pop rivet it on since holes are there.  Most likely the COO (looks like a title but for just the fiberglass body) was turned in when the AZ title was issued - probably along with the VW title.  The VW title linked to the Chassis # stamped into pan just forward of shift rod connector plate.  Most states title using the VW Chassis# (many call it a VIN but it was before VINs - which were 17 digits).  That VW # will give you the year of the donor pan which could be helpful for parts.  Since you are in Oregon - you might try to register it as a VW fi you can.  What year does the AZ title say it is?  If it says 2019 - then some states will require emissions test for that year - with no ODB port (on any old VW) it most likely would fail.

Mike M has an early 1983 CMC - wonder what is CMC Invoice/body # is?

It seems strange that when selling a vehicle overseas - they want the build to have been completed 25-30 years ago.  Doesn't seem to matter to them that its an old pan or kit was delivered years ago.  It can be hard to prove build date unless you can provide a title/registration trail.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Thanks so much for the information. This car was built in Arizona and purchased about 8 years ago and moved British Columbia. Canadian registration notes as 1955 Porsc /Replikit. I have a copy the application for AZ title  with 00032 miles on odometer with expiration of April 1997. If AZ titles are good for 2 years, I'm "guessing" car was completed in 95.                                 

With your help, I have a better understanding of the car I have and it's in sync with the story told by previous owner. The CMC body may  be early 80's or older but it's in great shape other than normal nicks in the original paint. The car  is on a 1970 chassis with a 1968 engine and was first registered in Arizona - May 10,1995. Previous owner  told me the builder was an enthusiast that took many years to complete his project.   Thanks to all for your time and input!

Gary - Is your car still in original color gel coat or was it painted sometime in its life?  It looks too good to be original gel coat.  All the CMC/FF were color gel coat which was meant to save builder time/$ as the gel coat was the final surface.  It can be wet sanded and buffed to get a nice shine --- but a decent paint job will "out shine" it.  The red gel especially turns pink quickly.  Mine came in black gel coat and there was an extra charge for that color.

Someone who used to work at CMC said all records were kept for 7 years and then thrown in a dumpster.  This was 1992 plus 7 years - I'm surprised there were NO computer records that survived! I've found no record of # built total or per year or ratio of classic to California "C" models.  CMC also made the Gazelle, MGTD, 359, Cobra and a '34 Ford Vicky --- and the factory build Tiffany.

CMC 2 Buying Guide


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  • CMC 2 Buying Guide

I'm pretty sure it's as original color from CMC. I have a "poor quality" photo of the chassis build with the body in the background. Car has some issues [minor I hope] such as "wandering". I plan to try the "shims" I learned about from this site and if still wonky will take in for alignment.  I need to identify the dual carbs and figure out how to adjust idle and  how to remove the speedo from the dash as well as removing the seats - "But I'll get there"! My son-in-law, "a Porsche nut" persuaded me to by a 911 Carrera 4S that I drive only occasionally  but I'm having much more fun playing with the little red   I'm really lucky to have found this group of owners.


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  • build-1

On the back of the Speedo can are two 10-32 studs.  Depending on what speedo you have, you disconnect the cable, disconnect the wires (mark where they were), and then look for a square "U" bracket that pushes up against the back side of the dash on either side of the Speedo (9 o'clock and three o'clock).  Remove that bracket and the speedo is removed out into the cockpit.

Note:  Depending on what you want to do on it, you may have enough slack in the wiring to pull it out some distance with the wires still attached.

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