Skip to main content

Hi group, I just got a recent build (1957) 1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-4c9172596b0582fa305f1cf91ac6acd11957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-56f81133988329b27b8bf680321d14681957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-971943d161d07971caac9c7dbe000afa1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-c35badb894afb7cae3539d27d54d18b2that has about 5km on it. I need to get a couple seat belts and any info on how to mount them would be great. Any brands, links? Do I just mount them to the seat rail bolts or something? Transporter arrives in a week so I wanted to get the ordered. I am not a big mechanical person so if I cannot mount them to existing bolts then I will need to find some shop to do whatever needs to be done vs pretend I know these things.

Attachments

Images (4)
  • 1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-4c9172596b0582fa305f1cf91ac6acd1
  • 1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-56f81133988329b27b8bf680321d1468
  • 1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-971943d161d07971caac9c7dbe000afa
  • 1957-Porsche-356-import-classics--Car-101530611-c35badb894afb7cae3539d27d54d18b2
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

In my Speedster the Crow lap belts bolted right up to the same attachments as the original 3-point harnesses, but as a Beck with a tube frame the mounts may have been different from those on a pan.  While the lap belts were comfortable and certainly kept my butt in the seat, they did nothing to protect my pretty face from the steering wheel when I had my accident.  Just be aware of the risk.

Last edited by Lane Anderson

jim, thanks for the info. i thought maybe the bolts they mounted the seats to would work for attachment of the seatbelts but apparently they are not the same as my toyota landcruiser which is a tank. it seems i need to take it to the classic exotic shop and pay them to do it properly and spring for three point with shoulder or x formation to protect my wife's face.

@John Bungen posted:

jim, thanks for the info. i thought maybe the bolts they mounted the seats to would work for attachment of the seatbelts but apparently they are not the same as my toyota landcruiser which is a tank. it seems i need to take it to the classic exotic shop and pay them to do it properly and spring for three point with shoulder or x formation to protect my wife's face.

Just get the two-point belts. In order to install a shoulder belt or the four-point your car will need way more modification than simply installing the shoulder part to the side of the car.

You just need two bolts through the floor with a large enough piece of flat metal stock under the car spanning the two bolt holes, lock washers, and nuts to hold it all together.

The Dietz/Crow seat belts have a vintage racing style clasp on them --- unlike more modern seat belts.  They may not be for everyone.

Image result for crow seat belt

You can use cheaper more modern/conventional seat belts with just the chrome clasp - some even adorn them with a PORSCHE decal.

See the source image

If your seats don't have large (fender) washers holding them on the bottom - it would be worth the time to add them to the 4 mounting points. (The floor pans are very thin and normal washers will rip right out in an accident.

The CMC subframe does have a higher hidden support that could be extended and used for a 3 point seat belt.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0

What ever you chose you'll need to reinforce the floor where the anchor bolts are to be located. Floor is too flimsy for anchoring. Using the seat belts will deform the floor.

Is the floor of a CMC any different than the floor of a Vintage Speedsters or Vintage Motorcars built Speedster?  Those cars all come with seatbelts mounted directly to the floor with a large washer on the underside.

@John Bungen

I have dozens of sets of seatbelts taken from Vintage Speedsters built cars and I'd be happy to send you a set for the cost of shipping.   They are in very good condition and were only removed so I could replace them with a belt that has a Porsche emblem on it.

@Troy Sloan sure that would probably work if the principle is the same and it looks ok for my car. Maybe you can email me at sales@ampridesusa.com my ebike company email and I can see a couple pics and figure out how to get you the money. I have an email into my repair shop guy to see if he can mount up as he has a lift and tools. Unless he has some already I would need to get some coming in. Also, if you have any other badge related items my car is missing i could buy that from you. I am about one week into this so any suggestions are great.

@John Bungen posted:

@Troy Sloan sure that would probably work if the principle is the same and it looks ok for my car. Maybe you can email me at sales@ampridesusa.com my ebike company email and I can see a couple pics and figure out how to get you the money. I have an email into my repair shop guy to see if he can mount up as he has a lift and tools. Unless he has some already I would need to get some coming in. Also, if you have any other badge related items my car is missing i could buy that from you. I am about one week into this so any suggestions are great.

John.

Your car has most likely been around for a while and it wouldn't surprise me if it actually did have seatbelts at one time.  Hard to imagine that it has never had seatbelts.  Take a look under the car and see if you see holes in the vicinity of where I drew the white spot on the attached picture.  If they are there, all you will need to do is poke through the carpet.  If not, its a very simple matter of drilling holes in that location on both sides of the seat.

Shipping cost is no big deal, about $8.  Email me your address and I'll just send them to you and you can mail me back a check when they arrive.

Troy replicaspeedsters@yahoo.com

Seatbelt Location

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Seatbelt Location

@Troy Sloan this was the listing and info https://www.centralclassiccars...456490d652c8abe74b75

Vehicle Description
CMC early made body which has been block sanded and buffed to a beautiful finish. Motor is a 1641cc that has been rebuilt with new carb, alternator, sport exhaust and we finished it off by installing sound deadening material and putting in all cooling tins. The I.R.S. transmission is a stock 3:88 that shifts perfect and uses a Empi shifter with a reverse lock out. All the brakes were rebuilt with new pads, cylinders, drums, and brake lines. The car was re-wired by Alan Merklin from front to rear and includes a new style fuse box. All the gauges work as they should. All the light work was replaced including the bumper guards, Fluted headlight lenses and rings, horn grills, front and rear lights, hood bar, side chrome and emblems. The interior received new carpet, seat covers, and a beautiful wood steering wheel !!The car includes side curtains, conv. top, and cockpit cover. This car runs and drives beautiful and puts a smile on everyones face !!
@DannyP posted:

Looks like a nice clean car. Good luck with it.

The only thing I see that is needed is grommets on the battery cables where they pass through the trunk fiberglass. ALWAYS use grommets through panels.

I'm a little suspicious about whether that vent hose is rated for gasoline as well.



FWIW, I've found my local Ace hardware has a great selection of grommets.

@Alan Merklin wrote (maybe tongue in cheek): "I can't recall working on this particular speedster and some things that I do on every speedster are not shown within the photos. I would say I have not had an association with this particular speedster."

I remember you helping me swap out a dead speedometer backlight bulb on the Carlisle show field one year.  Do you remember if that was a 5 or 7 amp bulb?  I want to make the light level even on both sides.    

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×