CMC Wide Body Wheels - Request for help

Bill I as had mentioned love the way your looks. Is this why you chose 16 x 6 and 7 since they rub instead of 16 7 and 8. 7 in the front will rub.

I do plan to lower the car and was probably not going with 17’s




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> On Jan 6, 2018, at 7:31 AM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
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Calmotion:  All I'm familiar with for 16" Fuchs rims are the original Porsche rims for 911/930/944 cars.  All of the 16" 944 rims that I've seen are black anodized spokes, but they come in 6" and 7" rim widths.

The 911/930's were often Black Anodized, but they had their share of polished spokes, too - ALL of the Polished versions in decent shape, ready for clean-up will run you $400 - $1500 EACH.  They used them on 911's and 930 (turbo) cars with widths from 6" to 11", that's it.  Backspacing differed on each.

Here's everything you ever wanted to know about wheels for Porsche.  Just remember that the Porsche bolt pattern is almost unique - Only the Porsche/VW SUV and Audi Q-cars have the same 5 X 130 pattern.  It will probably be cheaper to go to a Chevy bolt pattern on your hubs and aftermarket wheels as Dr. Clock suggested.

https://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/WheelWts.html

Fuchs wheel chart- you can see how they fit- 

Note- on irs with Beetle drums the 7x15 911R wheel  (with a 205 tire) will not fit unless you have late (single) spring plates and the bolts inserted from the outside. The short bolt that threads into the spring plate will be  put in from the inside and needs to be cut down in length to flush with spring plate.

Fuchs wheel chart

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HI It’s a little more complicated than just wheel-tire size.  

I would estimate the width of the CMC flares at 4” or 5”.  Originally, I was running 6” wide rims on the front and 7” wide on the rear with 205/50 X 16 tires front, 225/50 X 16 rear.  Loved the combo but you cannot rotate tires.  πŸ€”

I now run 6” wide rims all around that came from a 911.  All four wheels are spaced outward 1-1/8” with billet, hub-centric spacers (Pelican Parts). I could have used 1-1/4” spacers and still not rub anything.

I went with 16” wheels because I like how they fit the wheel well openings ( they just look good).

@calmotion  Thanks!  I sold the car back in 2008 and was pretty active on here in the old days.  There are probably some old posts with the info you seek.  I would have to rely on my ever failing memory, not advised.

If I remember right they were TSW wheels, can't remember the offset.  I machined my own custom billet wheel spacers.  The center caps are decorative.

Looks like they still make something very similar.  Don't see a 17" size.

My goal was to do the flares justice and fit the widest rubber I could fit.  I remember fabricating a wooden jig that bolted to the face of the drum/rotor that I could use as a datum to measure accurately to the inner fender lip on the outside and any chassis bits on the inside.  I could also use the jig to verify the tire diameter/width throughout the whole suspension travel and lock-to-lock steering travel.

I also remember doing a lot of internet research to find the right combo to fit.  I didn't want to do spacer/adapters but had to go that route.  So the spacer adapters were pretty beefy and precision.

(Been so long that it looks like all my old posts are labeled "FORMER MEMBER" instead of my old account name.  Makes it hard to find stuff.)

 

BTW: "There has been a lot of discussion here about how hard of a ride the 17 tire give."  I didn't buy a Speedster for the ride!  I couldn't feel the bumps over the smile on my face.  Of course that was 15 years ago, and now I get stiff and sore after a hour in my Durango.

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@Jerome Smith I get it with a big smile / ride. I thought about that decided to stay in the middle. 

A) get it as close to the end of the fender so it’s flush on all four corners without using to wide of Dover/ adaptor. I think balancing get crazy if not hub centric for the adapter / wheel. 

Im debating using 205x 45 as well as 225 x45 16 due to little sidewall. 

Thanks for the info. 

@calmotion  No problem.   If you have any reservations I reallyrrecommend making a jig to  get measurements.  I seem to recall there was about a 1/2" difference on the driver's side vs the passenger side.

FYI: The tires were 245/35's.  I seem to recall some guys squeezing 255's under there.

Good luck!

@Jerome Smith wrote- "Cowards!  17 X 8 All 4 corners!!  "

I'm sure it works (and don't get me wrong, it does look good!), but I can't help but wonder how well the stock front suspension could control a wheel/tire that huge- and what was the turning radius like?

@Gordon Nichols wrote- " Originally, I was running 6” wide rims on the front and 7” wide on the rear with 205/50 X 16 tires front, 225/50 X 16 rear.  Loved the combo but you cannot rotate tires.  πŸ€”"

It's not a commuter car- who the h#ll rotates tires on a hot rod!

This is interesting calculator if you want to compare rims backspace/offset and see impact on how wheel sits in your wheel opening.  I compared a 2L Fuchs 4 bolt with ET40 to the EMPI Fuchs replica with ET45.  Ok would have to redrill/replace rotors/drums to 5 lug bolt pattern but I would gain and added 5mm/.20" to the spacing to the outer wheel well lip (which I have already sanded).  I can probably sell my 4 2L Fuchs for what going to the fake polished Empi Fuchs.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/in...h=5-5&offset2=45

 

@ALB

Believe it or not I felt it handled great.  Tracked straight, no crazy vibration at highway speed.  I had no issues with maneuverability in parking lots etc.  No rubbing at full lock.  I'm sure the larger contact patch made it tougher to steer at low speeds but I never drove a Beetle/356 with narrow tires so I have no frame of reference.

I remember while taking my measurements the back of the wide tire was very close to the same position as a stock VW tire/rim.  This gave me confidence that the that any additional moment load on the spindle was minimal.  I also seem to recall not a big difference in weight between the light weigh aluminum rim and low profile tire and the stock steel wheel and tire.

I still took care to over-design the wheel spacer/adapters for strength, balance, and concentricity.

 

 

"Former Member"   @Jerome Smith wrote: "I machined my own custom billet wheel spacers."  

Sure......   We all do that, dude.   

Seriously, though, Jerome's car always had "the look".  It was just right because he put a LOT of thought into his total execution, and the way the wheels/tires fit the wheel wells was/is just about perfect (even if they looked like the inspiration for SAS wheels - Hey!  Lawing had to get his ideas from someone!)   I took a more traditional approach in going to the 16" wheels on my car and while they looked good, originally they had the black spokes (Jerome probably remembers those).    They look far better with polished spokes against my white car.  

A quick note on Jerome and my ribbing him about the spacers - Jerome is a bit unique in that he is (or at least used to be) a tool design engineer for the plastics industry.  What makes him unique in my mind is that he is an engineer who actually knows how to use machine tools like lathes and milling machines (hence, the home-made spacers).  For those of us "less worthy" there places like Pelican Parts who will make them to order.

Here are Jerome and his brother, Carlisle, 2004, just before Chris and I dusted him out of the stoplight.......  (See Pearl in the reflection of his door, black spokes and all).

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And me, detailing Jerome's car at the show field (and I don't even detail my OWN car!)

HR_78

Say HI! to your brother for us, Jerome!

 

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