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Is anyone but me having condensers fail at miserably low miles?

I've had two (made in Turkey) Bosch condensers fail recently with under 1,000 mile on each.

Had to get towed home from Big Sur yesterday as one left us stranded there. I know, I should've had a spare with the trouble I've had, I thought the first failure was a fluke, not anymore.

Whitecloud's now running on a borrowed, 30 year old Bosch (made in Germany) condenser but this is only a loan from my buddy Jim Ansite www.ansiteinc.com so I need a reliable substitute, any ideas?

And yes, I've considered switching to electronic ignition but a reliable condenser shouldn't be so hard to find...

Will

For the poor, every day brings trouble, but for the happy heart, each day is a continual feast! 

Proverbs 15:15

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Will  The Bosch 9-231-081-465 is a common replacement distributor for four-cylinder Porsches. Maybe you can still snag a German one off a Porsche site.  On my projects speedsters I buy the  009 dizzy that has the ignition already installed and if on a trip carry another dizzy in the tool bag.

https://www.vwnos.com/condensers

 

Last edited by Alan Merklin

Will:  Please check in this order, but I suspect it is #3:

1.  Alternator output voltage  - should not exceed 14.2-ish volts

2.  Point dwell angle - you'll need a dwell meter for this and they should be somewhere between 44º and 50º  (alternatively, you can check the point gap, but I always use a dwell meter on points).

If both of those are OK (and I suspect they are), then 

3.  Swap the coil for a new one as that one in there is pulling way too much current flow and the condenser can't handle it.

The purpose for the condenser is to absorb some of the coil's energy as its magnetic field energizes and collapses so that the points don't see enough current, opening and closing, to cause them to pit or burn as they operate.   You have something external to the distributor that's amiss, so along with a new condenser, put in a new set of points - your points are probably burned, too.  Especially if it's running slightly rough.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Will, once you replace the condenser (and the points.......AND the coil) remember that the coil/points/condenser are all part of a tuned circuit that is trying to keep the current in the circuit in balance.  After changing those three, run it for a week or two and then closely inspect the points with a strong flashlight (they used to sell small scopes for this purpose, but the VW distributor is so far down in there it makes the scope useless unless you remove the points to see them better).  They should NOT have a peak on one side of the contacts.  If they do, but it's very small (1/64" or less), I would consider going to yet another condenser (don't be a baby.....They're friggin cheap).  When you find one that balances the circuit the points won't have a peak growing on either side - both contacts will look the same and the current is in balance.

Most condensers for 12 volts are made to the same capacitance value (it is a capacitor, after all) but that value is in a range due to manufacturing inconsistencies or both the condenser AND the coil - different coils draw slightly different operating current.  Lower condenser capacitance makes a peak grow on one side of the contacts with use, and higher capacitance makes it grow on the other contact.  The right value for your coil/points/condenser tuned circuit will balance everything out and no burn peak(s) will grow on either contact ("no" is kinda relative, here).

Once you find a condenser that balances everything, I am not an advocate for swapping it out with the points every 12,000 miles.  I prefer to leave it in there (it is happily working with whatever coil it has in there) and just replace the points.  Condensers usually don't slowly perform worse over time.  They prefer to work and work and work until the point when they fail 100% and put you on the side of the road.  THAT is why you always want to bring BOTH points and condenser along in your road spares kit.  I have a set in my kit and I don't even run points!

So that's points and condenser 101 for this evening.  Stay tuned, tomorrow, when we'll be reviewing "101 reasons why you should have a road spares kit (and why you should keep it stocked with more than roadside wine and a bottle opener)" another "Roadie Best Seller" by Terry Knuckles.......

BTW:  Some electronic ignition modules (I'm thinking "Prestolite", here) also have what looks like a "condenser" hanging on the side of the distributor.  In reality, it is an ignition suppressor to eliminate some of the spark noise transmitted back through the ignition 12 Volt wiring.  In all honesty, all it really is, is a condenser with a different capacitance value but it essentially does a similar thing with the energized/collapsing electro-magnetic field of the coil.  Most (virtually all) electronic ignition modules don't need a condenser as they have a small circuit within the module that does the same thing as a condenser to protect the module circuitry from spurious currents.

well, everythings good on Whitecloud's engine except the Turkish-made condensers. 

I'm not the only one having this problem with them, the new Bosch condensers commonly available are unreliable. I'm running a 30+ year old Bosch and it's running great so I've located a stash (11 count) of NOS Bosch which are going to be my go-to's from now on. 

The Bosch blue coil actually fixed a mis-fire problem I had with the blue Beru coil previously.

Nothings perfect with these cars but stay away from the made in Turkey Bosch condensers, it's common knowledge at this point across VW/356 land, I'm just late to the party...as usual.

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