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Ok, so last night I started this journey by actually ordering some things. If you're not into details, skip this post and come back once I start putting pictures up.

I have an ECU on the way. Speeduino UA4C from WTMtronics in Michigan.

It's a Speeduino board designed by Weaver Markel and Josh Stewart. Josh is the mastemind behind the whole Speeduino thing and Weaver started making boards and distributes in the USA, as Josh is in New Zealand(or is it Australia?). They teamed up to design this one. As it is an open-source project, all schematics, code, and circuit board designs are available to anyone, anywhere, for free. Or you can donate if you choose.

The Speeduino boards are mostly designed to replace a factory ECU and re-use the case, to make it seem as if nothing has been changed underhood. This doesn't lend itself to ease-of-use by people like me that are starting from scratch. There are several versions of PNP(plug and play) boards already in a case for Miatas to illustrate my point.

So, the UA4C. It's a standalone with a 22 pin and a 24 pin header on the end for a total of 46 input/output pins. It comes with board-mounted connectors and loose connectors and pins for making up your own harness.

It has 4 ignition outputs and 4 injector outputs so full-sequential is possible in the future. Right now I'll do batch-fire(actually semi-sequential) injectors, 2 at a time. And I'll do wasted spark with that same VW Golf coilpack that Mike used, 2 cylinders fire at a time, one after compression stroke like normal and the other in-between. This is how MANY OE manufacturers did spark since the late 80s until recently. Now they do coil-on-plug which isn't really possible on a VW.

This the same way I've been running since 2008 with my Megajolt. Crank-fire(VR sensor) and wasted spark Ford coilpack. I built that from a kit of parts, and hand-assembled and soldered the through-hole components. This system has been 100% bulletproof so far.

The Speeduino board uses SMT(surface mount technology) and tiny components, so the board is basically finished and pre-soldered when you receive it. I added a bluetooth board for MSDroid(cell phone app to tweak and log on the fly). I added a signal conditioner to enable the VR sensor on my crank to be used as-is. I also added a stepper idle-air valve controller for possible future use(not planning to use at this time, but for $3.50 well-worth it).

The UA4C board includes both an on-board MAP sensor(Manifold Air Pressure or in my case: vacuum) and a barometric sensor for on-the-fly altitude  mixture compensation.

I also got the Arduino Mega that attaches to this board and is the brain of the operation here. And a nice aluminum case and custom pre-cut end plates for the case.

$187 including shipping so far.

I also ordered a new 3 pin connector from Mario at thedubshop for my existing VR sensor. $13 shipped.

Next up, I'll get some wire in multiple colors to build the harness. I already have extra shielded wire for the VR sensor.

I'm about to order some new injectors and an intake air and temperature sensors from CB Performance. That way they'll surely fit my CB throttle bodies and fuel rails.

Then it will be on to the fuel/regulator/pump stuff and installing a return line through the car.

Stay tuned(LOL!)

 

2016 Vintage Spyder 2165 type1 EFI/Dry Sumped

Last edited by DannyP
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Ha ha ha. 

I already have two CB Performance 48mm ITB(Individual Throttle Body), fuel rails and a TPS(throttle position sensor). I also have an MSD 2225 EFI pump and a Mallory 4305m adjustable regulator. I also have injectors, but they are the old low impedance peak&hold style. I'll buy new high-impedance injectors for this project, they'll actually bolt-on and are compatible with the Speeduino directly.

The throttle bodies are bolt-on, and I can re-use my linkage, air cleaners, air cleaner bases and intake manifolds with zero modification, so that's a big win for easy right there. 

I'll be taking them apart and cleaning the throttle-bodies. I got them from LennyC in a trade a few years ago when he went to Dell carbs and a distributor.

Last edited by DannyP

The ECU and VR connector will both be here on Monday.

I did some calculations, and my engine requires 28 lb./hr. injectors, or 295.31 cc/minute. The fuel pump I have, MSD 2225, flows 43 gallons per hour at 40 psi, and 39 gph at 80 psi. That translates to about 8 or 9 times the required flow, so I'll have way more than enough flow. The specs say 500 hp, but I think more like 300-350hp for that pump, which is still overkill for 170 plus hp.

This is an easy to use calculator for fuel rates and injector sizing:

https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator

I'll be using the Mallory 4305m fuel pressure regulator that I also already have(thanks Lenny!). The fuel pump will be under the tank, and the regulator will be in the engine compartment just after the fuel rail. I'm currently working out connections, returns, and possible surge tank. AN6 fittings will be used at either end. Hard line through the chassis for feed and return to tank.

I found 25 feet each of 11 different-colored automotive wire for a really good price. Chrysler and Ford certified harness wire, in 20 gauge, with insulation that isn't too thick to fit the Speeduino harness connectors:

https://www.crimpzone.com/20-t...oEAQYByABEgJwlPD_BwE

I've decided to keep a running tally each time I spend more on this. And I'm sure to spend more than initially figured. Of course!

Right now I'm at exactly $200.

Last edited by DannyP

Phil, I know you are kidding here.

No, I haven't looked at Jake's stuff, Phil.

The whole point of this for me is to DIY, and to do it with the least expenditure possible. Plus, use components I already have(pump, regulator, throttle bodies, fuel rails). I really enjoy the process of researching, buying, and building it all up. And then running the crap out of it when it's done.

The ECU will be here tomorrow.

@550 Phil check your PMs.

Last edited by DannyP

This is going to be great, Danny.

The sheer betterness of modern EFI and crankfire spark should improve these engines by an order of magnitude compared to an 009 and typical enthusiast-tuned Webers. 

But that's for normal duffers.

Given how close to perfect your particular Webers are maintained, I'll be very interested to hear how much better EFI makes the engine, and how (if at all) you change your spark table to take advantage. 

I received all the electronic stuff last night. It's very nicely made. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

The Spyder needed some attention, which it got this morning. The steering was a bit loose around center the last time I drove it. First thing, found the RF wheel bearing a little loose. Front suspension needed grease also. Then I adjusted the steering box. Ahhhh perfection, as much slop as possible is now gone. What a fun-to-drive car!

Today was 78-80 with a light breeze and sun. My wife and I went for a good old Spyder ride this afternoon, and it was good. Real good.

When I left the house for a ride this morning (about 9am) it was just hitting 67F.

Got back home at around 11am and it was just hitting 77F.  Relatively dry, too.

Gotta love it.

Except for the Ragweed pollen, which makes me sound like Kermit the Frog, as Merklin found out when he called the other day.   My family and neighbors are used to Kermit always being around, but you guys sure aren't.   It's getting so bad I've re-started my allergy shots in a Covid world.  Scary for my age group, but I don't seem to have much choice.  Never had these allergies when I was a kid, but your body chemistry changes over time and I guess mine is getting lazy (like the rest of me).

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Sorry about your allergies, Gordon, and the heat, Lane.

Pictures as promised. First the ECU case, slightly thicker than one pack and longer than two packs of cigarettes. But still, very small as far as an ECU is concerned.20200819_10423420200819_104312

No, I don't smoke people! Here are all the components that came in the box:

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Clockwise from top left: Arduino Mega board, the "brain", the Speeduino UA4C, ECU board that interfaces the car to the brain, a USB cord and the case, connectors, the case endplates(beautiful and copper-clad for interference-blocking), the idle stepper driver, VR conditioner, and finally the bluetooth module.

I've got a bit of soldering to do, and firmware/software downloading. Then some testing and harness-building. This is going to be done over the winter off-season. 

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Last edited by DannyP

With an aftermarket ECU, you need a wide-band O2 sensor. In order for a wide-band O2 sensor to work, it needs a controller board. Without getting into all the details why, just know that you need to output a signal that varies from 0-5 volts(A narrow-band O2 sensor outputs between 0 and 1 volts and does this without a controller board). The Speeduino can read this voltage and know the A/F ratio and adjust it, this is what's known as "closed loop" A/F control.

A narrow-band can control the idle mixture and cruise mixture, but defaults to open loop when not idling or cruising. That's why it's called narrow-band. Conversely, the wide-band reads all the time and can help with tuning in all modes: warmup, cruise, WOT, decel, etc.

I got the wideband controller, wiring, and a little 3-digit LED display. I may not use the display, I can read the AFR through the app, but for $7.50 why not? 

https://www.wide-band.com/WB-D...nd-Kit-p/wb_d1g1.htm

Once I solder it up and verify function, I'll pot it in epoxy in the little black case that it came with.

$47.50 for that, without Bosch O2 sensor, which I already have from my AEM POS that died. I got this a week ago, but forgot about it. 20200819_103234

@Carlos G : this is wired exactly like yours, diode on the red(+12v) lead, and fuse on the black(ground) side.

Total expenditure to date: $247.50

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Today I spent a couple hours on ECU assembly. I did quite a bit of soldering, thankfully I bought myself a nice temperature-controlled soldering station some years ago.

Those who don't want to read, skip to the pictures at the end. Summation: I did a LOT of soldering today.

I started out with the stepper driver for future idle valve control. It's all surface mount components on a board with 8 pins down each side, so soldering that in is like soldering an old 16 pin integrated circuit.

Then I soldered the connectors for the wiring harness, a 22 pin and a 24 pin. They were easy, the plastic connector snaps right to the board.

Then the rest is all header pins, but a LOT of them. The Arduino Mega has about 80 female contacts.

Then there were a few more for jumpers to select different options, and a 4 pin header for Bluetooth. 20200820_12093820200820_12252720200820_12274620200820_19051920200820_19070120200820_19080420200820_190825

The Bluetooth board will get a heat-shrink on it and probably a dot of hot glue.

It's pretty cool that the board/case came with the vacuum bulkhead fitting and hose for the MAP sensor. It even comes with a 3D-printed plastic piece that keeps the board pushed toward the connector end of the case.

Tomorrow, firmware/software download and testing.

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I caught the serial number on your Speeduino board of 488 and remembered the number of our (still dead) Bosch dishwasher when I called in for a service visit:  00042

I wonder if they got stronger after 400 or so?  (The dishwasher, not the Speeduino)

Also, it's good to see someone actually soldering stuff to a circuit board again.  Last time I messed with a PCB was when the SMD power switch detached from my Tom Tom GPS board.  I, too, bought a professional level soldering station (you can find anything on Amazon) with a micro tip and itsy-bitsy solder to get those tiny SMD legs soldered back onto the board, then fab'd a micro bracket to prevent over-pressuring the switch to keep from tearing it off the board again.  

Maybe next you can be on the lookout for a depreciated wave-solder machine or a "Happybuy" reflow oven for SMD stuff - Everyone needs one of those in their shop, ya know?  It would be a lot better than my GE counter-top "Easy-Bake" oven.

https://www.amazon.com/Happybu...6334860728&psc=1

But then, making the fixtures to hold the PCBs and components in place as they get machine-soldered might take longer than the rest of the project!   

 

Yeah, I've got no need for a reflow oven...........

Today I got a couple things done that were important. First, I downloaded and installed the Speeduino on the Arduino Mega board. Then I tested connectivity with Tunerstudio, check. Next, I downloaded the Speeduino base tune.

No pictures, they wouldn't be showing much anyway.

Tomorrow, I'll attach the Mega to the Speeduino board and test the TPS, O2 sensor, coolant and intake air sensors. I need to download a VR signal simulator, load that into a spare Arduino and test the VR input. 

Once testing is complete, I'll be waiting a while to build the harness and install all this stuff.

Thanks guys. In my post above, I should have said "download and install the Speeduino FIRMWARE on the Arduino Mega". Oops.....

I spent some quality but frustrating time today on the ECU. Got it connected to Tunerstudio ok, but could only test a little. I couldn't get the crank output simulator configured. I also couldn't get the Bluetooth board to pair with either my phone or laptop. I'm sure I will eventually get there, but this stuff is not easy, simple, or foolproof. There is a STEEP learning curve going on, even for me, who understands most of this stuff.

The learning curve leveled out a LOT today.20200824_16172120200824_16172620200824_16173420200824_16171520200824_161709

Tunerstudio GUI on top. After I did some initial selecting, all gauges are in range, no more red. Tested MAP sensor with a vacuum pump, and TPS, IAT and CHT with a potentiometer.

Second is Arduino UNO($7) and free software for VR crank signal generator. Download some code and attach a signal and ground wire. Easier now that I know how......

Third is the whole mess with a 12v battery.

Fourth is a little battery-powered oscilloscope. That was a gift from a real tech-geek customer when I installed his FiOS. The guy had a super-fast liquid-cooled computer. You can see the trigger pattern on the scope.

Lastly, the ECU. You can't see the ignition and injection LEDs flashing, but they do. 12v and 5v LED are on, plus tach output and fuel pump output. It's a really nice unit for the money. 

I'm so thankful that I have the option of Autotune. It's well-worth the price. It'll definitely flatten THIS (learning) curve! As in, I won't really have to learn all that much......

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Nothing much to report today. Bluetooth board looks OK, and lights up, but will not pair. I ordered a new Bluetooth board($9 Amazon) plus a usb-serial programmer($11 Amazon) and I'll do it myself! They MIGHT be here tomorrow depending on USPS.

I don't count on anything destined for Friday to actually get delivered anymore.

I soldered up, heat-shrunk and tested the wideband O2 controller and calibrated it.

Total= $298.50

$247.50 + $20 bluetooth stuff and extra Arduino $7(which I had already but will count anyway) + $23.99(Dupont pin crimper for ECU harness)

 

Bluetooth module was delivered today along with USB-UART serial board to program. Took about ten minutes. The module is now programmed to 115200 baud rate, that is the speed that Tunerstudio and MSDroid use. Even changed the PIN, so it isn't 1234 or 0000 any more.

The first pic is all gauges "clean and green" as we used to say at work.

In the second pic the bluetooth module is ty-wrapped on the upper right edge of the ECU in a clear plastic case.

Both my phone and laptop paired up with the ECU quickly, so this project is ready to be installed. The laptop stayed connected 20 feet away, even though the bluetooth antenna is inside the metal ECU case. I'm pretty sure the cover is permanently installed now.

I calibrated Tunerstudio for the wideband controller, and tested the analog O2 input the same way you check the TPS, with 5 volts and ground to the outside pins, and center potentiometer pin to the ECU input. All good.

I also paid for the full version of Tunerstudio at $60.

So we're a bit under $360. Yeah, I could have bought a different ECU, but what would I have learned?

Building an ECU harness and fuel plumbing(fittings and hoses and lines, oh my!) is up next, but it will be a couple months before I start.

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Last edited by DannyP

And on top of that, you're having a heckuva lot of fun getting it built and running!

Nice clean installation, too.

And what does "Gamma Enrichment" mean for us carburetor users?

Never mind - Just found it:

It's a term that includes warmup, closed loop O2, air density, and baro correction:

http://www.megamanual.com/v22m...l/mfuel.htm#equation

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Thank you all, gentleman.

I'm going to steal a page from Mike Pickett's book next:

I'm going to install the spark portion first and get that perfect. Then add fuel to the mix. It makes sense to do it that way, especially since I'm already running crankfire/trigger wheel/coilpack.

What's the old adage? One change at a time.

Spark first, fuel later.

I ordered some more stuff:

Amazon:

Bosch coil: $50

Coil connector: $10

Resistor plugs NGK DPR8-EA9 : $11

18 gauge wire(6 colors, 10 ft. each): $12

Crimpzone:

20 gauge wire(11 colors, 25 ft. each): $34

CB Performance:

28 lb. high impedance injectors: $180

IAT sensor: $40

CHT sensor: $40 (these two sensors are more expensive than most, but they're 1/8" pipe thread and smaller)

Fuel injector, sensor, and TPS connectors and injector clips: $55

$450 including taxes and shipping

+$360 already spent

$810 total. All that's left is hose, fittings, lines, and adapters. I'm sure I'll be under $1000.

I'm ahead of the game here, as I don't have to buy a pump, regulator, throttle bodies, injector rails, and crank pulley/trigger wheel/crank sensor. That's gotta be another $800-1000. But still would only be about 2/3rds of CB's complete setup.

Last edited by DannyP

I got some stuff delivered. The coil connector didn't fit, it was for a much smaller VW 4 pin. So I sent it back.

Mike Pickett graciously mailed me an extra he had, that's on the way. Thank you, Mike! The coil is a Bosch and looks exactly like Mike's.

I saved some money on IAT and CHT sensors, I got them both from Ballenger Motorsports for $53 shipped, way cheaper than CB. Plus, they came with pigtails too, so I saved about $60 on sensors and connectors. They are both 1/8" pipe thread, so very small. I got my injectors too, and 4 connectors. I'll post a pic when I install them.

I did some work on the fuel system. I took the fuel rails, injectors, air filter tops and velocity stacks off the throttle bodies. Cleaned up the whole she-bang.

The throttle bodies measure 48mm on the bottom, and 49.5mm on top. The velocity stacks measure 46mm at the bottom. I'm seriously considering making aluminum shims to make them 44 or 45mm throttle bodies, albeit with 48mm throttle plates. If the smallest point is 46mm, there is no need for a bigger hole/passage IMHO. The only thing a larger passage does is lose velocity. I may see how it runs first, this might be a non-issue with injection vs. carbs. The injectors are below the throttle plates. I know that the top of my manifolds are bigger than the bottom of my 44mm carbs, but I didn't measure them.

I decided to use a Subaru fuel filter. All the connections on the pressure side are hose barb(8mm or 5/16") under the tank, so I'll use some Continental EFI hose and those fancy EFI clamps bandied about in that other thread(Jimmy's). The regulator is ready to go and the fuel pump works. Everything on the pressure side in the engine bay and on the entire return side is 6AN. I'm going to drill a hole in the top of the fuel tank and install a 6AN bulkhead fitting. There will be a metal tube inside the tank that returns fuel to the bottom of the tank: no bubbles. I need to run another 5/16" metal hard line down the center. It's 58" long so a 5 footer is perfect. As I found out before, 5/16" fuel line is good for 350hp.

Currently working on plumbing/hose/fittings parts list. I'll be starting this in mid-October.20200913_185425[1]20200913_185446[1]20200913_185514[1]20200913_185843[1]

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Finally starting on the actual build, after all the parts and pieces have been gathered.

@Alan Merklin it's funny you posted about the wire storehouse. Wire came in loose bundles. I found these reels on Amazon for a few bucks. I made this rack yesterday:20210126_113129

30 feet each of 10 colors of 22 gauge.

10 feet each of 18 gauge in 6 colors.

Well at least I'm starting it. I'm doing spark only first then will add the fuel after I get it to run on carbs. I think it's a good plan.

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I just realized I never finished my parts list and costs.

I was at $810, but saved $60 by buying the CHT and IAT sensors from Ballenger Motorsports, so we're at $750.

I spent $210 on Amazon back in October for Gates Barricade EFI hose, clamps, fittings, adapters, some AN braided hose and fittings for the engine compartment, a fuel pump clamp, and even an adjustable aluminum AN wrench.

I spent another $40 at Advanced Auto getting some copper/steel fuel lines for feed and return through the tunnel.

I may have spent a few more dollars at Jegs or Summit buying a bulkhead fitting and teflon washers for the fuel return fitting in the tank.

I'm right around $1000, like I figured, except for the sweat. I've decided to go for idle speed control via  a stepper valve, so that valve and housing and vacuum hose will get added when I figure it out. I'll be using the built-in ports in the CB throttle bodies to add a "calibrated air leak" to control idle speed.

SpyderMike from the spyderclub.com most graciously(BIG THANK YOU!) sent me his CB vacuum reference kit. This installs a spacer under each throttle body with a small brass fitting to allow all 4 intakes to couple together. This hose gets routed to the ECU's onboard MAP(manifold air pressure) sensor. I'm hoping to hide the vacuum hose under the fan shroud.

vacuum kit

I spent some time today laying out the wiring on paper. I've got 28 wires to route to and from the ECU. Some are already there: power, ground, ignition, tach, three fused relays, and four wires to the fuel pump up front. For the fuel pump I'm stealing my trailer light harness that ran through the car when I flat-towed.

I've got to make a new coil mount for the Bosch "smart coil" to replace the "dumb" one from the Ford Escort(Megajolt).

I'm running new wires to the VR crank sensor, CHT, IAT, TPS, coil and injectors. That should keep me busy for a while...

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I removed all the Megajolt bits and wiring. I also ordered a 6 fuse power and ground distribution block for $15 delivered, should be here tomorrow. It's 3.5" square, so it should fit nicely on my back board.20210130_141844

I'm reusing my old relay board, it's from a 1990 Subaru. Very thin and compact for 3 30 amp relays.

The wires coming through by the shift cables are the Vintage harness. Black is switched ignition, orange to the tachometer, light and dark green to the GM oil temp sender, and purple to the oil pressure idiot light. The last three have nothing to do with the EFI, but the harness needs to be inside the cockpit. I'll heat shrink and tuck them under the board.

I'll connect the ground bus to the steel center tunnel and run an always hot lead to power it all.

I also found a Chrysler idle air control(IAC) stepper motor and wire pigtail for $10 on eBay. I'll make a manifold out of a hunk of aluminum and put a tiny breather filter on it.

$1025 so far.

Forward progress.

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Chrysler IAC showed up, so I'm off to the metal place today to see if I can get a 2" x 2" aluminum chunk for the IAC manifold.

The fuse panel showed up too so I've mounted that and am starting the wiring(and recording the colors and gauges for a schematic). I ran an 8 gauge(already had) feed to a 40 amp circuit breaker($5), to a couple relays(already had), then to the fuse panel. 8 gauge ground buss next then the small and tedious wiring begins.

I used my new ratchet Molex crimper for the 3 pins on the VR sensor, that thing is SWEET and well-worth the $23 price. Shielded cable is a MUST on VR sensors. One heat shrink later and it looks perfect.

I bought a later VW Beetle plug wire set($37) and proceeded to cut the coil ends off. I made up and 8mm silicone wire set using the Ford Escort wires with the VW coil ends. A little silicone spray and they went together nicely. The Ford wires are the perfect length when the coil is mounted near the transmission, and the plug boots are a perfect snap fit on the plugs and with the Bosch air seals.

$1067 so far. These projects all have price creep, don't they?

Pictures later, I promise.

As promised, I have some photos. Didn't get that much done today, had to deal with a repair shop that couldn't get the OBD plug to work for a yearly emissions inspection on Michelle's Subaru. There was nothing wrong with it. Of course.

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I didn't want to Velcro or tape the ECU to the board. Not a big deal to cut a couple small pieces of aluminum angle for mounting. The 6-32 screws had to be cut very short to not interfere with the board. Good size comparison of the small ECU.20210204_194241

Hybrid Ford Escort 8mm silicone wires with VW New Beetle coil ends and old Beetle Bosch airseals.

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Decided to scrap the Subaru relay panel. I'm using a 40 amp circuit breaker on the main feed, a 40 amp Bosch-style main relay. Then another 30 amp for the fuel pump. The 6 fuse panel distributes power to the ECU, O2 sensor, coil, pump, and injectors. It'll lay out like this pic above eventually.20210204_204737

Waiting on some 6 x 70mm bolts to mount the coil. Thankfully I don't have to re-make the mount, it's welded to the transmission strap.

Tomorrow, some serious wiring. Maybe I'll fire it up on Speeduino ignition and carbs soon.

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I did some more work today. It's coming along nicely.20210206_141428

This is the ground attachment for the whole system. Crimped the ends with a big hex crimper with multiple dies. Then marine heatshrink and star washers under bolts. You can see the brake, clutch and fuel lines in the 1" high tunnel.

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This crimper, cutter, and ends was $30 on Amazon.

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Greg makes custom fiberglass covers for between the seats. Finishes it off nicely. I cut a small slot in the lower left corner.

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The EFI feed is closest to the camera.

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It runs down the left frame rail then acrid the firewall toward the center. You can also see my VR sensor wire. It is grey 2-conductor with shield. You can also see the firewall grommet.

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More:20210206_183630

The other side of the firewall grommet and 40 amp system circuit breaker.

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All that power and ground stuff is done. Main and fuel pump relays are done. Tomorrow I'll move on to ECU connections. Once I power the coil and terminate the VR crank sensor and tachometer at the ECU I can fire it up.

I tested my work so far, and no smoke was released or fuses blown LOL!

I have some boots on the way to cover the circuit breaker studs.

I'm really pleased with the way it's coming out. That little fuse panel is sweet too.

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Good evening. I did a lot of wiring today. It took a long time to make and run the coil harness. Four wires: power, ground, and two small wires to control the two smart coil drivers in the pack.

I am sleeving as much of the harness as I can in heatshrink. I bought it in 8 foot rolls, but you can only get a couple feet to slide over at a time.20210207_122423

That's the only picture I took today. I also installed the wideband O2 sensor and ran that wire toward the ECU.

Pretty much all the wiring has been run except for injectors, TPS, head temp and intake air temp. That will come later when I do the fuel portion.

Michelle was a valuable help fishing the wires through the firewall grommet, which is now curved and impossible LOL.

Tomorrow I'll work hard on terminating the ECU wiring, then maybe fire up on spark and carbs.

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What we need is a pause every so often, and then get a synopsis of what's been going on by Pintel and Ragetti, those two wayward pirates from the Caribbean with a knack for getting to the heart of things:

Pintel and Ragetti

"Well, he started out with a perfectly good, running car but desired a bit more, so he decided to go whole hog on a computer-controlled engine management system, but he wanted to do it in steps so he started with deciding on what major parts to use and ordered some and got others from local junk yards.  Then he worked on the wiring for everything and had to buy a few tools (he loves tools and has a lot of 'em) to complete some of the larger connections.  

"Meanwhile, some of his parts began to arrive (even though deliveries are delayed by the Pandemic) and he could begin to piece together the fuel system and make necessary modifications to major parts.  The wiring has been progressing while he has made the harnesses in the car, many of which are always visible, as neat as possible and added lots of fuses and circuit breakers for added safety and to prevent the loss of wire smoke from the Lucas parts.

About those British, "Lucas parts", most recently, he has conducted the "Lord Lucas, Prince of Darkness" test for his combined British, Teutonic and Middle Earth electricals and found that no powered smoke escaped, so he will soon be testing the ignition side of the project by "Releasing the Kraken"........  
Oh,  Sorry....   No Kraken just yet....  
But he will be starting the engine with the new Engine Control Unit (ECU) and, once that is successfully done he can move on to installing the fuel delivery system and checking for more smoke.

Come back again, soon, as we discover more things to tell ye!"   -   Pintel and Ragetti

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I got a lot done today. I was happily wiring away when my coil bolts came in the mail.

So I took a break from wiring. I drilled and tapped the three holes. I had to put some ALB lightening holes in my bracket(but only for bolt clearance), there is a piece of steel angled under the flat part the coil bolts to. A bit of masking and paint and:

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Then back to the wirework.

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I tied up the O2 sensor wiring under the ECU, that came out a couple feet long. It's OK for now. Those Amazon crimpers are totally awesome. After over a dozen perfect crimps, I'm sold. I pull-tested every one. I don't think I'll ever solder another Molex pin again(that's how I did the Megajolt harness in 2008).

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The fuse box is all done except for the injector harnesses, one for each side of the motor. Driver's side will also have the TPS. Passenger side will have the wires for head and intake air temperature sensors.

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And all done for today. I powered it up, seems OK. Main relay clicks, then the fuel pump relay clicks on for 6 seconds to pressurise the system. O2 controller powers up and reads 19.0(no fuel i.e. full lean).

Tomorrow I'll get the laptop out and start testing. I'll pull the plugs and spin it over, checking for crank signal. Then I'll throw a timing light on it and verify a fixed(10 degree) value.

If that checks out, new plugs in and FIRE it UP! Maybe load a spark curve first LOL?

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Last edited by DannyP

What's the little potted thing under the Speeduino box?

Yup...  Crimped Molex terminations are the way to go.  Properly done, they make a stellar connection and with a hand-held crimper you can work almost anywhere.  

We didn't have Amazon as a go-to when I was working so we bought the crimpers (both hand held and bench) from Molex for astounding $$$$$$$. The hand-held equivalent of the one you show (very similar to mine) was a shade under $300 bucks!  (and how do you spell "Rip-Off?"

Nice progress there, Dan.  Your thing of beauty is becoming more beauteous, inside and out.

The little potted thing is my wideband O2 controller. I thought I had posted pics, but I guess not.20200826_12153120200831_12375020200831_161615

The wires are really long. I can shorten them later.

Yeah I couldn't justify $300 crimpers. $23 knock-off, absolutely.

Thanks Gordon.

More later, I should be testing for spark.  It's snowing so I'll be in the garage today.

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Last edited by DannyP

Ah....   I see you're using the lab potting technique we used on cables in the 1980's.  We had forms for some of them but others, especially for pre-production quantities, we did free-form with masking tape - worked great.  You really can't beat submersion potting for anything in a hostile environment (and your car, at any speed, in rain, qualifies as a hostile environment).  

Snow's just starting here at 10am.  Another 6" due here in the snow belt of central Mass.     We're sitting somewhere around 2'+ on the level after compaction.  I'll be working inside where it's warm.  Just checked to see if the velcro adhesive on my heater controller stuck after I heated it up before applying.

It's still sitting there, stuck under the radio.  

Life is Good

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That is a very clean 36-1 toothed wheel signal. I loaded up a 16 x 16 version of my 10 x 10 Megajolt spark table.

Tunerstudio has some really cool features. It has interpolation. Put a value on either end of a row or column in any table, highlight, click interpolate, and all the cells in between the two fill in equally. Sweet.

Tomorrow I'll be firing it up hopefully.

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Thanks, Martin.

I know it's been a few days since I posted. I hooked everything up and thought I was ready to fire it up on spark only. That seems to be the hardest hurdle for almost every install.

There is an option in spark setup for output either "going high" or "going low". It depends on which coil you use, most are "going low". This didn't make too much sense to me, but going low has no voltage on the output, goes "high" for a couple milliseconds(which is the dwell time) to charge the coil, then goes low to fire the coil. Special thanks to Mike Pickett for the assist!

Tunerstudio is set going high initially which leaves 5v on the output basically all the time the key is on, except when the coil fires. The output goes low to charge, turn goes back high to fire. The problem with this is that coils burn out, just like in the old days with key left on and points closed.

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Oops! New coil from NAPA, $90 with tax. Ouch. I could have waited for $60 shipped but... This little option in spark setup is obviously crucial. The good news is the coil driver, the smart part, is OK and I'll save it in the tool/spares bag in the car. It simply unsnaps from the coil. You can just see it on the left.

The Lucas Druid Gods should be happy 😊. I let out some sacred smoke from the coil. It got HOT and smelled funny! Nothing else was harmed, thank goodness.

I changed the setting in Tunerstudio and mounted the new coil. I tested the coil outputs both by watching the ECU LEDs flash and hooking the outputs to my mini-oscilloscope. Good to go. Then tested at the coil connector, OK. Removed coil driver and tested the driver output, and good once more. Final test, hook it all up and test at the wires with an inductive timing light. And good, ready to start!

Fuel pump fuse in, fill the bowls, a few pump squirts, and success! It runs!

I also have video of my AFR at 14.5, sliding down(richer) to 13.5 when fully warmed up. On carbs. You CAN get them lean and running well on carburetors.

I have some short video but get errors when uploading even though the files are only 10mb mp4. I took a couple screenshots instead.Screenshot_2021-02-13-09-42-01Screenshot_2021-02-13-09-41-36

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Last edited by DannyP

Once it was warmed up and idling smoothly I got the timing light out again and verified that TDC was EXACTLY TDC.

I was a few degrees off, but that is easy to change the timing offset with a couple clicks in the software. You can set it anywhere between 0 and 360 degrees of offset. It was set for EDIS at 90 degrees and I ended up at 95. No more timing light, ever. I hope. It's really difficult on a Spyder. I tape an inspection mirror on the end at a 45 degree angle, coming in from the driver's side(don't touch the cylinder 2 J-tube!).

Anyway, now that it runs I can move on to the fuel portion.

No. Not OBD. No emission testing either. There is a USB connector on the ECU which I used for initial setup and testing.

But then I did purchase, program and install a Bluetooth transceiver. It cost about $10, and is I link up with either my laptop and Tunerstudio OR my phone with MSDroid(MegaSquirt Droid) app for on the go access and changes. I can store and load multiple tunes that way.

I took a couple days off, but now I'm back at it. Here's a picture just for @IaM-Ray:

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All covered up. I've got to add about a dozen more wires for the injectors, temp sensors, TPS, and stepper idle control. That will get done soon.

I've started the plumbing with the injectors and rails on the throttle bodies. After some looking around I decided to use good old Permatex case sealer on the threaded fittings as it is gasoline, oil, and alcohol proof. There were quite a few recommends on H.A.M.B. so good enough for me.

I like black fittings. I never liked the red and blue that a lot of people use. I even found some nice black anodized Allen-key pipe plugs.

I decided to install the IAT(intake air temp) sensor into the air filter base for a cleaner look. Electrical harness time tomorrow.

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Time to unbolt the carbs and start the fuel system.

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@DannyP posted:

No. Not OBD. No emission testing either. There is a USB connector on the ECU which I used for initial setup and testing.

But then I did purchase, program and install a Bluetooth transceiver. It cost about $10, and is I link up with either my laptop and Tunerstudio OR my phone with MSDroid(MegaSquirt Droid) app for on the go access and changes. I can store and load multiple tunes that way.

That, sir, is slick AF

The last couple times I fired the car up I noticed the valves were a little noisier than usual. I figured I'd post this even though it isn't specific to EFI. But it'll run better either way.20210217_16492120210217_16423420210217_17001420210217_172924

Those are Pauter 1.5 rockers from 2002. They have roller tips and roller bearings and they used to be bright purple-anodized. I had a couple that were a tiny bit too loose.

The contact cement on the valve covers cleans up with a rag and a couple squirts of carb cleaner. The glue literally slides right off. It took me twenty minutes to do the whole job, plus ten minutes for the glue to tack. Thin layer on the cover and the gasket, wait, and stick. I grease the gasket on the head side.

Look at the first photo, notice how there is basically no oil in the head? Dry sump, my friends. That huge pump sucks the oil out immediately. There is plenty of oil on all the moving parts and friction surfaces. It just gets evacuated and doesn't have a chance to pool and leak.

I really need to get my exhaust ceramic-coated.

We're getting about 6 inches of snow tomorrow so I'm sure to be in the garage working on the EFI.

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No pictures to go with today's summary, sorry.

I removed every bit of the old fuel system, except the carbs(only 8 bolts). Besides, the carbs protect the intakes from stuff getting dropped in there.

I pulled a line off one carb and ran the fuel pump until the tank was empty, I had about 5 gallons in there. The snow blower, BMW bike, and gas can are all filled up with Ultra 93 now. Yes, it was treated with Stabil.

Fuel tank is out, hose, filter, pump, hard line down the middle to a threaded brass T, and hard lines across and up the firewall to just in front of each carb. I also pulled the tunnel covers and the cable shifter over the tunnel. The cable shifter is bolted to a U-shaped steel piece about 1.5 feet long. It looks like I only need to drill one hole in the front and one at the firewall to accommodate the return line.

I'll start installing new stuff tomorrow.

When you emptied your tank with the fuel pump, how much fuel was left in the tank?

I'm just wondering if the placement of the fuel tank exit is in the correct location to use all of the fuel in the tank or not. I'm wanting to do what Ed did and remove the "bump" in the fiberglass that interferes with my foot while using the gas pedal. It's supposed to be there for clearance of the fuel tank exit.

Probably a gallon or so. I agree it isn't in the best spot for a Spyder. Since the tank is angled forward fuel is in the front when the pickup is uphill near the back.

I was thinking about moving the bung to the front until I thought about it. Under acceleration fuel goes to the back. I've never had a starvation problem, probably due to the float bowls but I don't want to chance it. And I don't want to run a swirl pot either.

What we really need is a custom tank with a small well and baffles that also looks the part.

Put two 5-hole sender flanges on it. One for the wrong fill location and one for the correct. One tank to fit them all.

Last edited by DannyP
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