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The company thats building my Speedster does not supply the Porsche emblems for the car.  The emblems are redily avaliable but I'm thinking before I drill the holes I beter know exactly where to drill.  Are there templates avaliable to align the emblems? "PORSCHE" on the front "PORSCHE below the engine lid, and the emblem on the dashboard. Thanks.

Original Post

I got a template for locating all the "jewelry" on my Spyder from Fibersteel when I purchased the front jackpoints.

I wonder if anything like that is available for a Speedster? Or maybe a kind soul on this site will help you out.

I do have a tip for you though. The Porsche emblem has to be drilled EXACTLY perfect. And you only get one chance. Make a template by poking the posts through a manila folder and tracing the letters. Then you can position it and mark and drill the holes. Step WAY back and eyeball it really long and hard for straight and even.

Cover the area with blue masking tape before you mark the holes. Start your holes with a small bit in REVERSE. This prevents the paint from wanting to lift. Peel the tape toward the holes without pulling the edge of the paint up. Seal the edges of the drilled holes with some touch-up paint or you can raid the wife's clear nail polish. It's important to seal the raw fiberglass.

@DannyP posted:

I do have a tip for you though. The Porsche emblem has to be drilled EXACTLY perfect. And you only get one chance. Make a template by poking the posts through a manila folder and tracing the letters. Then you can position it and mark and drill the holes. Step WAY back and eyeball it really long and hard for straight and even.

Cover the area with blue masking tape before you mark the holes. Start your holes with a small bit in REVERSE. This prevents the paint from wanting to lift. Peel the tape toward the holes without pulling the edge of the paint up. Seal the edges of the drilled holes with some touch-up paint or you can raid the wife's clear nail polish. It's important to seal the raw fiberglass.

No pressure, though.

I won't bore you with the sad story of me quietly sobbing after I'd drilled and nutserted holes in my brand new $400 Thing shroud to mount my coil, only to discover it was 3/4" to high to clear my hex bar. Oh, wait. 

Good tip on the sealing of the holes. I need to go back and seal the holes I drilled in my front bulkhead for my master cylinder reservoirs and lines. 

I strongly second IaM-Ray’s suggestion: I purchased my emblems from Stoddard’s, carefully  ground off the posts with a Drexel, and affixed everything with emblem adhesive.  The pieces that needed to contour to the shape of the car (the ‘PORSCHE’ on the nose, for example), I pre bent to match the contour - bending it over a basketball works great, and results in the perfect radius.

My big concern also was that since the our fiberglass is far thicker than the bodywork of the original metal cars, I would have to grind (thin out) the fiberglass from behind each emblem or the pins would otherwise be too short. That thought almost made me more nervous than drilling the holes correctly to start with.

Its been a couple years now and the emblems look as good as the day they went on!

Maybe. 
Is it variable speed?

The preferred method is to use a newly sharpened drill with almost no downforce on it and running at a very low drill speed (150 rpm or so) til you cut gently athrough the gel coat, then speed up a little and slowly cut through the fabric layers.  This will minimize cracking or chipping of the gel coat.  
Of course, if you use adhesive, this is probably moot.   

@R Thorpe posted:

If you choose adhesive would one use tape or the brush on contact cement made for emblem mounting.  What is preferred?

I would go with tape. Those can be removed with dental floss and GoofOff adhesive remover. If you use emblem adhesive, it can pull the paint off if you have to remove it.  I don't know if contact cement would stand up to the elements. 

FWIW, here's a little trick from my days of applying 6" Vinyl graphics to sailboats: Spray a little windex on the paint surface, then the adhesive won't immediately stick to the surface. Let's you make adjustments. Once everything is on straight, apply a little pressure then walk away. Once the windex evaporates, the letter will be fixed. 

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