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After working on it for about 8 years I have finished my Speedster, and I thought I'd share it. It has a 1911cc Type 4 (914) engine, and 5-speed gearbox (also Porsche 914). It is very much inspired by Rod Emory’s creations..... but my main goal was to recreate an old racer, not so much recreate a true 356 replica.
I still have lots of plans to keep me busy during the coming years: changing to injection, make a new cooling shroud, fit a hardtop (I already have a Glasspar replica), design and build wishbone front suspension....

Anyway, here are some pictures

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Correct, it the reverse lockout. It has a dogleg shifting pattern, so reverse is where you expect 1st gear to be. There are spring in the shifter to prevent going into reverse, but it is also preventing you to go into 1st. I figured it would then still be very possible to put it inadvertently into reverse at the traffic light, hence I 3D printed the green lever.

i do want to change the shifter, as the springs are making it difficult to put in first gear from my seating position. Takes quite some force.

@Marcel I honestly can't add anything to all of the comments above.  Well thought out and beautifully executed build of a one-of-a-kind outlaw racer.  I love it!

Your future plans for it are just as impressive.

And @barncobob to answer your question, all European countries drive on the right.  

Only the UK and her colonies (not all) drive on the left, so near Europe it's UK/Scotland, Ireland, Malta and Cyprus.

Here are some pictures of the build...

Body and basic subframe was supplied by 356-speedster.nl. Very happy with quality and support. I requested to have the inside of the body covered in woven glassfibre, instead of the usual chopped strand mat. Makes it look and feel much nicer.

The fusebox hides behind the passenger side of the dash, and rotates down for easy access.

I inserted the rear seats of a Coupe, to make the rear a bit more interesting to look at. But with my GRP tonneau you actually don't see it anymore.... (but I know it is there!)

The seats are from Donkervoort: really nice figure-hugging seats.

I located a “Rod Emory” type of GRP tonneau. In the end I didn't use it (it will be for sale), but I used it to create a mould for the tonneau and streamline hump you now see on my car.

Cooling shroud was made by myself from a mould I bought somewhere (I believe it came from Estonia), and I added vanes to split and direct the airflow. I'm working on a new design which I intend to make this summer.

I made the headers myself (plan to remake them in stainless). Subframe was heavily modified to increase stiffness of rear section (no butt-sag on my car!) and added supports to the front as well (incorporates towing eye.

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Next project will be a new cooling shroud for the Type4 engine. A DTM would be nice, but would be ridiculously expensive due to shipping and taxes before it is here. And I like to make things...

To evaluate my design, I will place ring-type thermocouples underneath the spark plugs. I made this housing for the gauges. It will not be part of the dash, but it is a plug-it-in-when-you-need-it thing.
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Started on the new cooling shroud (Type 4 engine). Made a 3D model and printed it in many sections. It took a looooong time. Next step will be bonding all parts together, cover the whole thing in a thin layer of woven cloth, and then filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand (repeat until fingers are worn), cover in 2K paint, ensure it is really glossy, take multi-piece moulds, and then finally laminate the real thing….

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I can't really tell - their home page says 404 not found but all the inventory pages are up with prices.  They moved from GA to NV a few years ago.  Even in GA they were hard to get a hold of.  Seems like they had parts in both places.  I think some one said they had a facebook page with owners contact info.  Prices seem reasonable today - I thought high a few years ago.  Could be like the closed gas station with 99 cent/gal gas still advertised!

rustytubs.com

356@rustytubs.com

Stan, to quote one of the "Die Hard" movies: "You're a Timex watch in a digital age".

Me too. To me, CAD means what Ed and others do: cardboard-aided design. I measure stuff, scratch it, center-punch it, use pencils and Sharpies. The whole concept of ones and zeros in a file is not for me. I understand it, I just don't know how to do it.

And Marcel, I'll echo Stan's comment: OUTSTANDING!

Last edited by DannyP
@Marcel posted:

@WOLFGANG
I intend to make a flange around the perimeter, make one half of the mould up to that flange, remove flange, and then make the other half.

This is exactly how it's done at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in their reproductive mold making shop. I took two semesters with them when I was in school. It was a graduate course and I cheated to get in it as an underclassman. One of the best classes I ever had in anything.

Go Marcel!!!

This is exactly how it's done at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in their reproductive mold making shop. I took two semesters with them when I was in school. It was a graduate course and I cheated to get in it as an underclassman. One of the best classes I ever had in anything.

Go Marcel!!!

@aircooled posted:

Marcel.........Could you use liquid rubber to make the mold ?  Perhaps support it with a fiberglass backing ? The rubber, when hardened, would be flexible enough to remove from the inside of the casting...........Bruce

Umm, exactly what are you guys making? Sex toys?

This two part rubber  used in my moulds above are used in the movie industry to make all kinds of props. It comes in different densities and is easy to use.  I use ball bearings to form my mould alignment pins because they are perfect for ease of mould separation.  It's way better than Flex-Seal.  Less expensive too, due to the volume required for most projects.

I have painted this rubber onto a pattern in several layers then painted fiber glass resin over that.  I apply layers of fiber glass  for rigidness/support of the rubber layer. When rigid enough and supported with ribs at strategic areas, I remove it from the pattern by splitting the mould between the flanges I made on the fiber glass layer.............Bruce

@aircooled posted:

This two part rubber  used in my moulds above are used in the movie industry to make all kinds of props. It comes in different densities and is easy to use.  I use ball bearings to form my mould alignment pins because they are perfect for ease of mould separation.  It's way better than Flex-Seal.  Less expensive too, due to the volume required for most projects.

I have painted this rubber onto a pattern in several layers then painted fiber glass resin over that.  I apply layers of fiber glass  for rigidness/support of the rubber layer. When rigid enough and supported with ribs at strategic areas, I remove it from the pattern by splitting the mould between the flanges I made on the fiber glass layer.............Bruce

Nice skills!

Stick with what you know Marcel.  By the way, I only sand the mould surface down to 1000 grit then go with the Maguires Mould release (3 coats). This leaves the surface of your finished product with a "matte finish". The matte finish can then be sanded with more 1000 grit to remove all the mould release and allows a good surface for spraying on what color gel coat you choose. For coloring the resin I use any 100% acrylic artists paint found at an art supply store.  It doesn't take a lot of it to get dramatic results either.

@Marcel I'll have to agree with everyone, pretty cool car.

I do have one question though. What are you running for tires?

I only ask because a few of us have been running, or going to be running, Vredestein Sportrac 5 tires. As this is a company from your part of the world, I was just curious what sizes are available to you? From what I understand, this company is not sure if they're going to keep on making, or importing to us, sizes that we'd be able to use.

Just wondering.

Carlos

BTW, I'm going to get mine mounted tomorrow.

Hi,

rear tires are a bit wider at the back: 185/65. It just fits the standard body without rubbing (IRS rear). But I can just fit a finger between body and tire.

It's indeed a shameless replica of Rod Emory’s “19” car, so all credits for composition go to him. I knew I wanted a racer (racer was more important then accurate 356 replica), and when the time came to choose the colour, after thinking for years about grey (Audi Nardo Grey in particular), I realised I just wanted the car I had as a background on my phone for years, which is Rod’s “19”. And I have absolutely not regretted that decision.

I came across a French guy, Lionel Rouault, on Facebook (he also posts in several 356 groups). He makes “drawings” of cars (I assume with some kind of mad Photoshop-superskills), and I asked him to make a drawing of mine. I'm over the moon, he nailed all details. I received a high-resolution PDF which I will have printed locally. The picture below is the lower resolution version. Highly recommended!

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@Marcel posted:

Hi,

It's indeed a shameless replica of Rod Emory’s “19” car, so all credits for composition go to him. I knew I wanted a racer (racer was more important then accurate 356 replica), and when the time came to choose the colour, after thinking for years about grey (Audi Nardo Grey in particular), I realised I just wanted the car I had as a background on my phone for years, which is Rod’s “19”. And I have absolutely not regretted that decision.

Certainly, no apologies needed.  That #19 is a gorgeous speedster, as is yours.

Well done!

Getting a bit bored with the cooling housing (sand, fill, sand, fill) I decided to start fitting my hardtop . Years ago I bought a Glasspar replica shell which I kept in a corner of my garage. I always knew fitting it would not be straight forward, but I decided to make it a bit more special, by making it fit over my tonneau-with-aero-thingy. This means a cutout in the rear screen, and a way to bring back the structural integrity that's lost when making the cut for the aerothingy. Current status:

(apologies for the blurry pics: I covered the aerothingy with cardboard to create an offset to allow for sealing rubber). The green section will be trimmed a lot, so the aerothingy will protrude from the hardtop.

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Well, the one on my car I laminated myself, but I did buy one of the “Emory” tonneaus. But that had an integrated fairing, whereas I wanted a separate piece. So I had to do some F2B25FC2-F2A0-47C2-975F-AAB909EA5EF0E8E07401-F2D6-44E6-A618-65B087A8A186moulding to be able to create my own version. The Emory (pictured) one will be for sale. However, it will be a challenge to have it transported.

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I bought the tonneau from a guy in the UK, and was lucky enough that a friend could bring it over to the Netherlands. I have no idea where it can be bought though. I had already bought a tonneau which can actually be bought at several places, but actually didn't really like the shape, so was over the moon when I came across the Emory tonneau.
By the way; I recently saw a picture of a Speedster in the sixties, which had the exact same shape tonneau, so I'm quite sure it is not originally from Emory.

The picture below shows the commercially available tonneau below the “Emory”.

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